10 Dec 25 - Antarctica 25 - Returning Along The Beagle Channel

It was the last full day at sea on our whistle-stop trip to Antarctica. We awoke to find the seas were moderating as we continued sailing towards the Tierra del Fuego. However, it had been another reasonable crossing of the notorious Drake Passage.

Not surprisingly, the ship's flag was looking a bit battered

I spent most of the day on the bridge as it was the best viewpoint to look for Cetaceans. There were a couple of Snowy Albatrosses and a Grey-headed Albatross among the far commoner Black-browed Albatrosses.

Black-browed Albatross

The clear highlight of the morning was another Western Rockhopper Penguin, which was well out to sea from Tierra del Fuego. Presumably, this was breeding on one of the Southern Chilean islands off the Magallanes Province or Cape Horn Archipelago.

Western Rockhopper Penguin: The only other breeding location is the Falkland Islands, which we didn't have the opportunity to revisit on this trip

Western Rockhopper Penguin

As we got closer to the Tierra del Fuego coastline, we started to encounter the first Chilean Skuas and large numbers of Imperial Shags. However, few were close and while the bridge provided a good viewing location, the glass windows made photography a challenge.

Chilean Skua: This monotypic species breeds along the coasts of South Chile & South Argentina and they range North to the coasts of South Peru & central Brazil outside of the breeding season

As I've got plenty of good Seabird photos from my two previous trips on the Plancius, I was focusing on looking for Cetaceans. Unfortunately, we didn't see any as we sailed towards Tierra del Fuego. A lone South American Sealion was the only Marine Mammal seen, before we reached the start of the Beagle Channel.

Finally, the Chilean coast (on the left) and the Argentinian coast came into view

Finally, we reached the entrance to the Beagle Channel in the afternoon. I was expecting this to be good as I've seen a reasonable selection of Cetaceans in this area. I was not disappointed. There was a Fin Whale with a second Whale blowing next to it, which was presumably a second individual. Also, a single Sei Whale and another unidentified blow. However, it was the Dolphins who put on a real show for us. In total, I saw thirty Dusky Dolphins, five Peale's Dolphins and another ten that were one of these two species. The first pods of Dusky Dolphins weren't close, but that didn't stop them being entertaining.

Dusky Dolphin: It's a pity these Dusky Dolphins weren't close to the ship

Dusky Dolphin

Dusky Dolphin

Dusky Dolphin

Dusky Dolphin: This pod were closer, but weren't they weren't feeling acrobatic

During the afternoon, we said goodbye to the three helicopters as they departed for their home base. I guess, it made more sense for them to depart in the outer Beagle Channel when the ship could manoeuvre to allow them to depart, rather than closer to Ushuaia when we had a pilot onboard.

One of the helicopters departing

The helicopters did a final flypast, before they departed

I had deliberately had a good lunch as I knew I would be skipping dinner, as well as, the Captain's final drinks. As I was in a good area for Cetaceans, I didn't want to miss this opportunity. Finally, we reached the Penguin Island and I was keeping a close look out for the Commerson's Dolphins that I had seen on the boat trip to Penguin Island. Unfortunately, I didn't see them. It was only when I was much closer to Ushuaia before I finally left the bridge.

The Penguin Island beach

The Rock Shag colony on Penguin Island

It's not just the wildlife, but the other fellow travellers on the ship, that makes these trips enjoyable. Thanks to all these passengers and the Expedition staff for being good company.

Nick, the other Birder on the trip and his partner, Caroline, talking to one of the Chinese passengers

Australian Anne, two of my cabin mates Rob and Zac, Janet & Clive

Expedition Leader Pippa

It had been a great trip. While we couldn't get far South into the Weddell Sea, I had seen three of the four Emperor Penguins that we seen. The other key species I was hoping to see were Antarctic Petrels and my first Crabeater Seal, which I had missed on the previous Antarctic trip. The stunning views of the Type B (Large) Orca were unforgettable. Finally, although I didn't land on the Antarctic Peninsula, I was pleased to have been able to land for the first time in the South Shetland Islands.

The Expedition Staff team: Shan, Allan, Saskai, Jess, Sam, Beth, Wei and Gary

We docked in the late evening in Ushuaia and stayed on board for the final evening. There was an early call for breakfast during the follow morning. Soon after breakfast, the ship was cleared for us to depart. I caught the ship's bus to the airport, where I spent the rest of day catching up with emails etc, as I hadn't wanted to be distracted with emails etc while I was at sea. I caught my early evening flight to Ushuaia that evening and arrived in the domestic airport about 22:00. I jumped into the pre-booked taxi which took me to a local uninspiring hotel for the evening. The following morning, I got the hotel to arrange an early morning taxi back to the domestic airport for breakfast, before my mid-morning flight to Trelew for the final leg of the Argentinian trip.

2 Dec 25 - Antarctica 25 - Sailing South In The Drake Passage

I decided on an early 05:30 start for the first day at sea in the Drake Passage. Even with this early start I failed to see the sun rise. After a quick cuppa tea I headed up to one of the bridge wings. The seas were remarkably calm for the Drake Passage, with a moderate two and a half metre swell. Ortelius is ninety metres long and she is still a fairly small ship by polar standards. These seas were creating a bit of movement, but it wasn't a problem from my perspective.

The main lounge on deck 6: It was nice and empty as I was one of the first up that morning

Deck 7 is the top deck

The big disadvantage of Ortelius is it is not possible to see forward from the bridge wings: The front of deck 6 has a forward-facing wrap-around walkway, but observers are very exposed to any headwinds on this walkway

Mid-morning in the Drake Passage: That is an impressively calm sea for the Northern end of the Drake Passage

Me watching from the port bridge wing: The photo was taken by one of the other passengers and the copyright remains with them. Unfortunately, I can't remember who took it

There was a reasonable selection of expected Seabirds on this first day at sea.

Black-browed Albatross: This is the nominate melanophris subspecies which breeds in the Antarctic & Subantarctic Islands, including islands off southern Chile, the Falklands, South Georgia, South Sandwich, Crozet, Heard & Kerguelen Islands, Macquarie Island & New Zealand's Antipodes, Snares & Campbell Islands. They range across the Southern Oceans from North of the Antarctic Convergence to the Tropic of Capricorn

Grey-headed Albatross: They breed on Subantarctic Islands off Tierra del Fuego, South Georgia, Prince Edward, Crozet, Kerguelen, Macquarie & Campbell Islands

Grey-headed Albatross: They are easily my favourite Albatross

Light-mantled Sooty Albatross: They have a cute body shape

Light-mantled Sooty Albatross: The breed on the circumpolar Subantarctic Islands and range throughout the Subantarctic & Antarctic Oceans

Cape Petrel: They are always an attractive Petrel to watch

Cape Petrel: This is the nominate capense subspecies which breeds from South Georgia to Macquarie Island, as well as, the Antarctic coast. A second subspecies breeds in the New Zealand Subantarctic Islands

Wilson's Storm-petrel

What I wasn't expecting to see were two species of Penguins, given we were over a hundred miles from the Southern-most point of mainland South America.

King Penguin: They breed breeds on the Subantarctic islands in Tierra del Fuego, the Falklands, South Georgia, the South Sandwich Islands, Prince Edward, Crozet, Kerguelen & Heard islands, as well as, Macquarie Island

Western Rockhopper Penguin: This party of eight Western Rockhopper Penguins were at least a hundred miles from the nearest colony which seems a long way to travel to feed

Western Rockhopper Penguin: A closer crop of the last photo. They breed on the Southern Chilean islands of the Magallanes Province and Cape Horn Archipelago & the Falkland Islands

The overall highlight of the day was a couple Antarctic Minke Whales which passed fairly close to the ship. Unfortunately, they were the only Antarctic Minke Whales I saw during the trip.

Antarctic Minke Whale: They were once thought to be a subspecies of Minke Whales, but these days they are split. They average about nine metres long, but they can grow to over ten metres. Unlike Minke Whales they have grey flippers

Antarctic Minke Whale: They occur across the Antarctic & Subantarctic Oceans and range as far North as Madagascar to North Australia in the Indian Ocean and across the Pacific to Peru & Guiana to North Angola in the South Atlantic

The plan for the cruise was to head far enough South into the Weddell Sea, so that we could use the three helicopters that we had on board to travel the final distance to the Snow Hill Emperor Penguin colony. This is the most-Northerly Emperor Penguin colony in Antarctica. Oceanwide Expeditions had a team of three pilots and their engineers from DAP Helicopters onboard. The three pilots had many decades of flying experience in Chile and Antarctica, including flying for the police and air-sea rescue. I felt we were going to be well looked after on the helicopter rides. In preparation for the helicopter flights, there was a mandatory briefing in the afternoon to get us familiar to the helicopters. This involved showing us how to approach and board the helicopters. It also allowed us to take some photos, as we wouldn't be allowed to do that when the helicopters had their rotors turning later in the cruise.

The three helicopters could carry fourteen passengers between them

Rob Luff in the middle was one of my cabin mates

The instrument panel was compact

It had been a good but long, day on deck, especially as I went back to spend some extra time after the evening meal. Then it was time for bed as I had another early alarm set for our second full day at sea.

16 Jan 23 - The Antarctica Trip - The Original Punk

The last Blog Post focused on the Black-browed Albatross colony on West Point Island: which contains about two thousand pairs. Additionally, there are around five hundred pairs of Western Rockhopper Penguins in the colony.

Western Rockhopper Penguin: This monotypic species which occurs on the Cape Horn Archipelago & the Falklands. It has been split from Eastern Rockhopper Penguin

Western Rockhopper Penguin: Like the Magellanic Penguins and Gentoo Penguins on Carcass Island, they do a lot of sitting around and waiting when they are in the colony, after they have fed their youngsters

Tristan Penguin: The closely related Tristan Penguin is now split from Western Rockhopper Penguin & it occurs on Gough Island, the Tristan da Cunha Islands, St Paul & Amsterdam islands. This is also called Moseley's Rockhopper Penguin. They are slightly larger than Western Rockhopper Penguins with a larger and denser yellow crest. Gough Island (10 Apr 18)

Western Rockhopper Penguin: The raised nests of the Black-browed Albatrosses are perfect to stop the two species getting too close to each other as the Western Rockhopper Penguins walk through the colony

Western Rockhopper Penguin: The original Punk

Western Rockhopper Penguin: Juveniles. A pair will normally have two chicks

I'm a big Penguin fan, so I won't apologise for a few more Western Rockhopper Penguin photos.

Western Rockhopper Penguin

Western Rockhopper Penguin

Western Rockhopper Penguin

Western Rockhopper Penguin

We saw a few Long-tailed Meadowlarks on the walk back to the settlement.

Long-tailed Meadowlark: Adult

Long-tailed Meadowlark: Adult

Long-tailed Meadowlark: Sometimes I managed to take a really nice photograph

All too soon we were back at the settlement & catching the zodiacs back to the Plancius.

The Settlement Beach: Like the historic farms in Tierra del Fuego, the farm buildings are wooden

At least we had a jetty to board the zodiac from

There was still time for some seawatching as we sailed for Port Stanley before dinner.

Southern Giant Petrel: The pale green tip is hard to see. However, it is clearly not the dark dull red tip of a Northern Giant Petrel

Imperial Shag: This is the albiventer subspecies which is endemic to the Falklands. The nominate subspecies occurs on the islands & coasts of South Chile & Argentina

South American Tern: They breed along the coasts & islands of Southern South America & the Falklands

One of the good things about visiting Antarctica in Jan, is there are still over two hours of good birding light after dinner to allow some more Cetacean & seawatching. We were away from the coast by the time we had eaten. There were usually a few hardy souls joining me on deck in the late evenings. We didn't see anything surprising on the Seabird side that evening, but two Sei Whales and another three unidentified Fin or Sei Whales were nice to see.

Sei Whale: The large size and prominent dorsal fin limits the options to either a Fin Whale or a Sei Whale. The shape of the dorsal fin confirms this is a Sei Whale

Sei Whale: The obvious kink in the Dorsal Fin confirms this is a Sei Whale: it would be a gentle constant curve in a Fin Whale

Sei Whale: This photo was taken three minutes later when it resurfaced. A second individual had just blown before going under

I went to bed with the alarm set for an early start to get some seawatching in as we approached our landing in Port Stanley.