Showing posts with label Wandering Albatross. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Wandering Albatross. Show all posts

30 Jan 2023

30 Jan 23 - The Antarctica Trip - Heading North In The Drake Passage

We were nearly a day into the Drake Passage and the seas hadn't moderated. However, the skies were relatively bright and the sea-sickness patches were still working well. But with the bouncy conditions, there were still a number of passengers who we hadn't seen for a day and weren't going to see again until we reached the calm waters of the Beagle Channel on the following afternoon. But, a number of other more hardy passengers joining us for extended periods on the bridge wings to try and get that perfect waves breaking over the ship photo.
Spray breaking over the ship: This is one of the better photos I saw, but it is only spray and not waves. I think my cabin mate Bill took this photo
Albatrosses and Northern Giant Petrels provided the close Avian highlights of the day, albeit we did see a reasonable selection of other Petrels and Storm-petrels.
Wandering Albatross: Immature
Southern Royal Albatross: This is an immature & I think it's a 1st year individual. Adult Southern Royal Albatrosses have a white band on the inner secondary coverts which narrows as it reaches the bend in the wing: this area remains black in Northern Royal Albatrosses
Southern Royal Albatross: The same individual
Black-browed Albatross
Black-browed Albatross: A different individual
Northern Giant Petrel: This individual spent some time just flying alongside and quite close to the Plancius. This is something we often saw with the Albatrosses and Giant Petrels. I assume that they can save effort from being in the slipstream or perhaps they are just sheltering from the wind when they are on the correct side of the ship
Northern Giant Petrel: The same individual
Northern Giant Petrel: The same individual
Northern Giant Petrel: The same individual
We saw a few ships heading to Antarctica. They were bigger, more luxurious and probably more stable for their passengers in these seas. However, they wouldn't have offered the same extended landings or some of the interesting landings that a smaller ship like the Plancius can offer. Due to their extra size, they would have had more than one hundred passengers, which is the limit of passengers allowed on South Georgia and Antarctica at one time. This means that their passengers could only have landed for part of the landing window. But some of the ships in Antarctica offer the opportunity to experience the continent without the 'hassle' of landings. Personally, that would be a massive reason not to travel on ships like that. But if it means that type of passenger avoids the Oceanwide Expedition ships, then that is good in my eyes.
The Aurora Expeditions ship Greg Mortimer heading to Antarctica
In the early afternoon, a couple of Hourglass Dolphins tried to come in to bow-wave. However, they weren't close enough or fast enough to be catch us up to play in the bow wave. They may have reached the stern as I've seen Hourglass Dolphins tagging along in the wake before.
Hourglass Dolphin: I had good views to identify these Hourglass Dolphins before I tried to get some photos. But every time they broke the surface, they were quickly back below the water before I could get a photo. But it's possible to see the large white patch of the side of the front half of the body which tapes to virtually nothing before broadening after the dorsal fin
Hourglass Dolphin: Another view showing how difficult it is to see the exact shape of coloured patches when the subject is underwater
My clear highlight of crossing the Drake Passage occurred around mid-afternoon. For a change I switched sides to the port bridge wing. I had only been there about twenty minutes when I picked up two large chunky Dolphins coming towards me. They were keeping just below the crests of the waves and had a very distinctive black upperside with more black at the front of the body and less at the rear and a contrasting white underside. There were larger and bulkier-bodied compared to any of the other Dolphins I had seen on the trip. When I thought back to the sighting immediately afterwards I realised I hadn't seen a dorsal fin on them. It was useful to have seen the Hourglass Dolphins less than an hour before, as that really helped to emphasise how large and bulky they were. It confused me as it wasn't a species I recognised. But when I checked the books it all became clear that these were my first two Southern Right Whale Dolphins. I watched them for a while and had a good view, before I tried to get some photos. Frustratingly, I failed to get any photos. The lack of a dorsal fin and the ying and yang shape of black and white markings ruled out a Spectacled Porpoise, which has a more uniform-width black upper body and white underbody and a large semi-circular dorsal fin.
Northern Giant Petrel: A final individual which appeared during the late afternoon
We still had one more day in the Drake Passage until we reached the Tierra del Fuego coast and the Beagle Channel. I will cover that in the next Blog Post.

29 Jan 2023

29 Jan 23 - The Antarctica Trip - Force Eight Around The Antarctic South Shetland Islands

After two long days with very early starts and deck watches until last light, I needed a bit of a lie in. This decision was reinforced overnight by feeling the ship moving a lot in the sea. So, I had a lie in until about 07:30 which allowed time for a look at the conditions from the lounge over a cuppa tea before heading off to breakfast. The sea was lively and the conditions were living up to the Force eight gale that Expedition Leader Ali has promised us, or was that warned us, about for the journey back across the Drake Passage. The plan for the morning was a zodiac ride around the South Shetland Islands, but that seemed optimistic.
A post-breakfast view of one of the South Shetland Islands coming out of the mist
Another island in the mist
Another island
As we got closer to the South Shetland Islands, the seas and winds picked up. But that's not too unusual as the wind and sea can increase due to funnelling through the islands. We checked out the planning zodiac location and it was clearly too rough to consider anything.
The seas did moderate at times around the islands
Another island taken from the comfort of the lounge
Steve, Siegfried, Bill & I discussing our plans for the day: Not sure who took this photo
The seas were very lively at times around the islands
I was surprised to see a navigation marker on one of the islands
Ali & the Captain checked out a couple of other locations, hoping to find a more sheltered area, but to no avail. When I spent time on deck, I saw a number of expected Southern Ocean Seabirds, but this Antarctic Tern was the only species I photographed.
Antarctic Tern: Carrying a fish & presumably breeding on one of the islands
Antarctic Tern
By later morning, it was clear that we weren't going to get a final zodiac ride in the South Shetland Islands: c'est la vie. Plan C was adopted which was to start out a bit earlier for Ushuaia. This would give us a bit more time to the cross the Drake Passage. However, it also meant we passed through a very rough channel between two islands just as we went to lunch. This made for a very bumpy meal. In hindsight, I guess the catering team would have preferred for the ship to stay in the lee of the islands for an hour to finish lunch, before we covered that rough channel. But it was to be a quiet lunch for those of us who ate, as about twenty to twenty-five passengers had retreated to the cabins and we didn't see them again until the final afternoon as the seas finally moderated as we reached the Tierra del Fuego coastline. I was really pleased that the sea-sickness patches were working well and I was able to carry on Birding & eating, despite it being a Force eight gale and corresponding seas.
One of the last views of the South Shetland Islands
Looking back on the South Shetland Islands as we depart
Wandering Albatross
Wandering Albatross
Wandering Albatross
Grey-headed Albatross
Antarctic Fulmar
Antarctic Fulmar
Antarctic Fulmar
Soft-plumaged Petrel
We also had a couple of large Whales, either Fin Whales or Sei Whales, but given the sea conditions we did well getting any photographs at all. Sadly, these had to go down in the notes as not specifically identified.
Fin/Sei Whales: Sometimes the photos are just not good enough to be able to identify a Whale to a species. There were two individuals right next to each other
Fin/Sei Whale: This is about the best dorsal fin shape that I have got from a later photo. Based upon the bulk and dorsal fin these two large Whales are either Fin or Sei Whales. But there isn't a good enough photo of the dorsal fin shape to be sure
The rough conditions brought a number of the non-wildlife passengers up to bridge wings with the hope of getting the perfect photo of the sea breaking over the bows. I never succeeded to get this photo. But the next two photos show how much we were moving in these seas, which had moderated a bit from the even rougher seas around the South Shetland Islands.
Whenever we climbed this high there was a chance of a good splash photo
This one didn't produce the perfect photo: It looks like we had passed through a front that afternoon as the skies are looking brighter
Sadly, it felt like our Antarctica trip was all too rapidly coming to the end. However, we still had two full days at sea left and so there was still time for some interesting Cetaceans. However, I'm sure quite a few of the passengers that evening were wishing we only had two hours of these seas left to endure.

19 Jan 2023

19 Jan 23 - The Antarctica Trip - Are We There Yet?

After spending one and a half days at sea after leaving Port Stanley, we awoke on the second morning with another full day and night at sea, before we reached South Georgia. Overnight we crossed into the Antarctic Convergence Zone. This is a roughly circular zone around Antarctica of cold seas which includes South Georgia and the Southern most of the New Zealand Subantarctic islands. But it doesn't include Tierra del Fuego or the Falklands, despite these areas being as far South as South Georgia. This seems to be due to the Cape Horn current which flows West past Tierra del Fuego and whilst it is a cold current, it's not as cold as the Antarctic sea temperatures. As a consequence, the Jan sea temperatures dropped significantly from the typically nine degrees around the Falklands to three degrees around South Georgia. Some of the species we saw were repeats of those that we had seen on the first day of the crossing.
The seas hadn't moderated overnight
The view from the starboard bridge wing: If asked which was their favourite place on the ship, many of the passengers would have said the lounge, the bar, the restaurant or their cabin. For me, the clear winner for my happy space was whichever bridge wing was most out of the wind that day. The front of the bridge wing is semi-enclosed which provides some additional shelter, whilst allowing a good clear view of the sea. It wasn't unusual for me to head back up there after dinner until it finally got dark, despite spending most of the day when we were at sea on the bridge wings
The port bridge wing as we came into Grytviken, South Georgia (21 Jan 23)
Wandering Albatross
Wandering Albatross: Male. The white forewing indicates this is an Adult Male
Wandering Albatross: Male. The same individual. The staining on the back of the head is excess salt that they expel from their beak. Wandering Albatrosses have a different head shape, as the other species of Albatrosses do not collect salt deposits on their heads
White-chinned Petrel
Black-bellied Storm-petrel: They were still the commonest Storm-petrel with seventeen seen. However, I also saw ten Wilson's Storm-petrels which was another sign that we were getting closer to their South Georgian breeding grounds
Black-bellied Storm-petrel
Another sign of the colder waters were a few small icebergs.
Our first iceberg of the trip
And another one
But we also saw some species that are typical of colder waters around South Georgia.
King Penguin: This was one of five King Penguins I saw during the day. This individual was probably over two hundred miles out to sea from South Georgia. There are around fifteen hundred pairs on the Falklands, but that compares with four hundred and fifty thousand pairs on South Georgia
Antarctic Prion: The common Prion around South Georgia is Antarctic Prion
Antarctic Prion: The darker grey chest patch, the heavier bill and a stronger M on the upperparts help to separate this species from the Slender-billed Prions that we had seen in the waters around the Falklands
Antarctic Prion: The Antarctic Prions on South Georgia are darker above with darker lores and a smaller white eyebrow than their populations in the New Zealand Subantarctic Islands. Is there a cryptic species waiting to be discovered?
Antarctic Prion: These are presumably the South Georgian banksi subspecies (although to be certain you need to see one with a spray can in the foot)
Antarctic Prion
Antarctic Fur Seal: Like the King Penguin, this sleeping Antarctic Fur Seal was a long way out from its breeding ground. It suddenly woke up, dived, before reappearing to look at what had disturbed its sleep
On the two trips I've been on the Plancius, I've always opted for a bunk in the four-berth cabins. The two-berth cabins are a fair bit more expensive for a bit of extra space and a proper window. But the four-berth cabin space is adequate and basically I just need a comfortable bunk, some storage space and the built in toilet/shower area. After all, I'm not spending a lot of time in the cabin, especially when it's not getting dark till about 22:00 and in Antarctica it was light just before 04:00. All the four berth cabins are down on deck three and they only have small portholes.
The four berth cabins were fine for sleeping as Bill (front) & Alexi demonstrated: But they were a bit tight if we were all moving around at the same time. That was only ever a small problem as we got ready for landings. It would be more worrying if we were in an emergency situation where we had to grab warm clothes, life jackets etc and were potentially against the clock
A typical view from the cabin's porthole
In these seas, the porthole changes to the inside of a washing machine: I wasn't surprised to return to the cabin later on to find that the metal porthole cover had been screwed down by the crew. It wasn't unbolted until we reach the calm seas around the Antarctic peninsula, only to be secured shut again for our return crossing through the Drake Passage in a Force 8 gale
The Expedition Leader, Ali, held a mandatory briefing during the day to describe the plans for our first day in South Georgia and also to run through the biosecurity procedures. After that we were all called in groups to bring up everything we would be taking ashore so we could thoroughly clean the boots, clothes, coats, bags, camera cases etc that we would take ashore, to ensure there was no soil on anything and no seeds left over from the last time those items were used. The cleaning has to be especially thorough whenever there was any velcro strips on clothes, coats etc as they are really good at retaining seeds. Later in the trip we were inspected by a South Georgia Government official at Grytviken, who was pleased to tell Ali that he didn't find any problems. Most of the ship's passengers were also pleased when they were given a free alcoholic round with dinner for this status. Being teetotal, I wasn't worried about a free drink as I wasn't being charged for the soft drinks, but I was pleased that the ship passed the inspection. After all, none of us wanted to introduce an unwanted European, American or Argentinian plant on South Georgia.
Ali confirming we would all be seeing some King Penguins on the Salisbury Plain landing in the morning: Having visited Salisbury Plain before I knew it would be a good start to our landings in South Georgia