23 Jan 23 - The Antarctica Trip - Heading South From South Georgia - Day 1

We left the Drygalski Fjord and Cooper Bay area in the South East corner of South Georgia in late afternoon. This provided an opportunity for a few hours of seawatching before and after dinner, while we were still relatively close to South Georgia. I knew that the next two days at sea were going to be well away from any land and in the deep ocean and consequently they would be a lot quieter. So, it was worth being on deck, while we still had the chance of South Georgia influencing the numbers of Seabirds. Unfortunately, no Cetaceans put in an appearance, but there was a selection of Seabirds that we had been seeing in the recent days around South Georgia.

Antarctic Prion: No surprise that Antarctic Prions were the commonest species seen with over eight hundred noted

Antarctic Prion: They continued to be our regular Prion over the next few days down to Elephant Island and as we passed the South Shetland Islands on our return North

White-chinned Petrel: I saw about a hundred after we left South Georgia

Cape Petrel: We checked every Cape Petrel party in the hope of an Antarctic Petrel, but this was a species that I thought had eluded us on the trip. That is until I found I had a photograph of one while I was photographing an iceberg as we sailed South towards Elephant Island. None of us saw it fly past at the time

On a more interesting note, we saw three single Snow Petrels and they were followed by an stunning party of six.

Snow Petrel: I'm never going to get tired of seeing Snow Petrels

Snow Petrel

Snow Petrel

Snow Petrel: How good is this flock of six Snow Petrels

As we headed South, this and the next iceberg passed us as they drifted North

I assume the two icebergs were once connected, given they were within a mile of each other

The final highlight of the day was seeing a number of Diving-petrels. This allowed us the opportunity to try picking out a South Georgia Diving-petrel from what should be the commoner Common Diving-petrels. The breeding population on South Georgia is thought to be about fifty thousand pairs of South Georgia Diving-petrels, compared to the best part of four million Common Diving-petrels. On my first visit to the Drygalski Fjord, I photographed lots of Diving-petrels as me cruised along the Fjord. When I got home, I spent the best part of a day reading all the books I had, as well as, looking for identification articles and photos online. The problem is some of the features overlap and you have to look at a number of features before you can be comfortable with identifying an individual. Once I had got my eye in on the features, then I could tackle the photos that I had taken. To help me remember, I put together a detailed Blog Post of the separation of South Georgia Diving-petrel from Common Diving-petrel, based upon photos I had taken in the Drygalski Fjord. It was good to have this Blog Post to refer on this return trip.

Common Diving-petrel: This Common Diving-petrel has obvious projecting feet, doesn't have a white scapular bar (which some Common Diving-petrels can show), and a chunky bill

Common Diving-petrel: The first individual. It has a long and bulky body, the facial pattern which doesn't stand out strongly and it is more uniform with the sides of the neck

Common Diving-petrel: The first individual. It's important to look at multiple photos to confirm the features and the ten reasonable photos I had of this individual and the blurry rejects all showed the same features

A second Common Diving-petrel.

Common Diving-petrel: The second individual. I only have one worthwhile photo of this individual, however, the protruding feet, the long and bulky body, the facial pattern which doesn't stand out strongly, the more uniform with the sides of the neck and the chunky bill all look good for a Common Diving-petrel

A third Common Diving-petrel.

Common Diving-petrel: Again this individual shows clear projecting feet, a large and bulky body, an indistinct face pattern that merges into the neck and a bulky bill

Common Diving-petrel: This photo shows the projecting feet a bit better

Common Diving-petrel: The large feet are even more obvious as it lowers them

As I was processing the photos of the third Common Diving-petrel, I saw there was a second Diving-petrel flying past in the background. This was a South Georgia Diving-petrel, which stands out very clearly from the Common Diving-petrel. Clearly, I should have focused on the further individual.

South Georgia Diving-petrel: Notice how small, compact, short-tailed, but with no projecting feet, slimmer & short-billed it is compared to the Common Diving-petrels. There is also a white scapular bar, which is more likely to be seen on South Georgia Diving-petrels, but both species can show this feature

South Georgia Diving-petrel: Another view as it turned away from the Plancius

There was a second South Georgia Diving-petrel which flew past the Plancius. These Diving-petrels show the importance of having good camera equipment when looking at Seabirds on these trips. Diving-petrels are no bigger than a small Little Auk and trying to see these subtle features on fast-flying Diving-petrels are sea is very difficult. Yet reasonable photos can provide the evidence that allow these two species to be separated, albeit not ever individual can be identified at sea for certain.

South Georgia Diving-petrel: This individual shows a short tail, but no projecting feet, a slimmer body and a small bill

South Georgia Diving-petrel: The same individual. Note, the short tail, lack of projecting feet, the white scapular bar, the pale crescent on the side of the neck and the small bill

South Georgia Diving-petrel: The same individual. Note, the short tail, lack of projecting feet, the slimmer body, the pale crescent on the side of the neck and the small bill

South Georgia Diving-petrel: The same individual. Note, the short tail, lack of projecting feet, the slimmer body, the pale crescent on the side of the neck and the small bill

South Georgia Diving-petrel: The same individual. Note, the short tail, lack of projecting feet, the white scapular bar, the pale crescent on the side of the neck and the small bill

South Georgia Diving-petrel: The same individual. Note, the short tail, lack of projecting feet, the white scapular bar, the pale crescent on the side of the neck and the small bill

It had been a good ending to the day with the good numbers of Snow Petrels and then both species of Diving-petrels for comparison with each other. We were now firmly in the Drake Passage & had two full days at sea before we reached Elephant Island on the third morning.

4 Apr 18 - Atlantic Odyssey - Day Seven: South Georgia - Diving-petrel Quest

During the cruise into the Drygalski Fjord, I spent a lot of time trying to photograph the Diving-petrels. I saw well over a hundred Diving-petrels from the starboard side of the Plancius. As usual, the Diving-petrels were generally not being picked up until they flew off the water & rapidly headed away. Overall, they were very much like Little Auks in their appearance & behaviour. I tried to photograph as many as I could so I could try sorting out the identification afterwards. There wasn't time to look at many of the photos as we were in the fjord as there were so many things to look at.

Drygalski Fjord: The fjord extends seven miles into the island in the South East corner of South Georgia

Quickly checking the photos that evening, I thought I had examples of two South Georgia Diving-petrels. Having spent several hours now peering over the photos, I have now concluded one of those South Georgia Diving-petrels was an out of focus & more distant Common Diving-petrel. The photos of the second were not great, but I think it was a South Georgia Diving-petrel. However, I also looked at some of the other photos & now believe I have found photos of two other South Georgia Diving-petrels. Part of this analysis was trying to get my eye in on Common Diving-petrels & how to identify them. I think it is reasonable to say that in South Georgian waters they are 'perhaps not identifiable in the field'. But I will now qualify that statement to 'perhaps not identifiable in the field with bins for visitors who are not incredibly familiar with the two species'. However, in recent years the quality of modern cameras & camera lenses have improved noticeably & now I think perhaps a reasonable percentage of these Diving-petrels can be identified in the field based upon photos taken & subsequently analysed. Often you need to have a series of photos of the same individual in flight showing them from different angles & trying to identify these Diving-petrels on a single photo is more tricky. The only drawback for Birders is to know which individuals they saw. But if you took the photos, then you would have seen the individuals. So I've put this Post together to see if it helps sort out the identification. I would appreciate any feedback on the identification of these individuals by leaving comments on the Blog.

Common Diving-petrel: While this individual has a white scapular bar (which some Common Diving-petrels can show), it also appears bulkier, longer than the South Georgia Diving-petrel & clearly has feet projecting beyond the tail. The bill appears to be chunky

Common Diving-petrel: Showing the bulk, size & extending feet

Common Diving-petrel: Also, the facial pattern doesn't stand out strongly & is more uniform with the sides of the neck

Common Diving-petrel: Again, note the facial pattern, structure & noticeably extending feet

This is another Diving-petrel individual which again, the overall features look like a Common Diving-petrel.

Common Diving-petrel: The facial pattern is relatively indistinct, the bill looks stubby & the feet project beyond the tail

Common Diving-petrel: The face & neck pattern look indistinct & it has a dusky underwing

Common Diving-petrel: Again, the projecting feet are obvious

I think this Common Diving-petrel is fairly obvious.

Common Diving-petrel: The legs project beyond the tail, the structure looks long & bulky, the facial & neck pattern pattern are indistinct, the underwing is dusky & the bill looks stubby

Another Diving-petrel individual which again, I think is fairly obviously a Common Diving-petrel.

Common Diving-petrel: The bill looks bulky, the facial pattern looks indistinct & the feet clearly extend beyond the tail. Some Common Diving-petrels can show white on the scapulars & this looks to be one of those individuals

Common Diving-petrel: The feet clearly extend beyond the tail

Common Diving-petrel: Showing the dusky underwing pattern & the indistinct facial & neck pattern

This Common Diving-petrel looks fairly obvious again, even though I only have one decent photo of it.

Common Diving-petrel: The extending feet & bulky looking bill & indistinct facial pattern looks support this being a Common Diving-petrel

So having got my eye in on what I think Common Diving-petrels looks like, I feeling a bit more confident in identifying South Georgia Diving-petrels.

South Georgia Diving-petrel: This looks like a more compact Diving-petrel with a clear pale collar. The bill looks smaller & more dainty & the feet do not extend beyond the tail. The underwing colouration looks more concolourous

South Georgia Diving-petrel: Close crop of the same photo

South Georgia Diving-petrel: Another shot showing the pale collar, the bill size & shape. Note, the right wing obscures the side of the breast

South Georgia Diving-petrel: Close crop of the same photo

South Georgia Diving-petrel: However, it does show more extensive dark on the sides of the neck that I expected. Again, the feet do not extend beyond the tail

South Georgia Diving-petrel: Close crop of the same photo

South Georgia Diving-petrel: In fresh plumage, they would be expected to show white scapulars along with white tips to the secondary coverts. However, this looks to be a worn individual. But the scapular markings aren't a particular good feature as some Common Diving-petrels can show them & worn South Georgia Diving-petrel may not show them. Again, the bill shape & lack of foot projection looks good for South Georgia Diving-petrel

South Georgia Diving-petrel: Close crop of the same photo

Here is another South Georgia Diving-petrel.

South Georgia Diving-petrel: This looks to have a more compact body with a pale collar patch, no obvious extending legs, paler underwing primaries & the remains of a scapular bar

South Georgia Diving-petrel: Close crop of the same photo

Finally, this is an interesting individual. The facial & neck pattern & general shape look good for a South Georgia Diving-petrel. Clearly, it has very large feet. However, the tail is very short, so looks like it has lost the tail. I'm really struggling to figure this individual out. But on balance I suspect this is a South Georgia Diving-petrel without much of a tail. [Follow up - I've run this Post past Phil Hansbro regarding identification of these two difficult Diving-petrels. He agrees with the identification of all the above Diving-petrels, but thinks this final tailless Diving-petrel sp. is a Common Diving Petrel. In hindsight, the feet do look very large].

Diving-petrel sp.: This individual has lost its tail so the feet look very big

Diving-petrels are clearly not an easy group to identify & I'm sure there is still a lot more work before their identification is well worked out. Also many photos will end up being left unidentified. Trying to compare these photos to ones on line also needs care to only look at photos taken in South Georgian Waters. There are other populations of Common Diving-petrel & South Georgia Diving-petrel which breed elsewhere in Subantarctic waters. I was told on the Plancius, that there is speculation that the current number of four Diving-petrels. They could be split into a number of additional species, if the same approach of looking at DNA that took place with the North Atlantic Storm-petrels is applied to these different Diving-petrel populations. Finally, I would welcome any feedback on these photos or comments within this Blog Post.

1 Apr 18 - Atlantic Odyssey - Day Four: At Sea From Ushuaia To South Georgia - Macaroni On The Menu

After leaving the Shag Rocks we were still Birding keenly, as we were within a day from South Georgia with the hope of a few of the breeding South Georgia species putting in an appearance.

Fishing Boat: I wasn't expecting to see this fishing boat as we left the Shag Rocks given we were inside South Georgia waters, where fishing is tightly controlled

Fishing Boat: Even less expecting to not be able to figure out the boat's name

The highlight of the rest of the day was our first Macaroni Penguins & Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses of the trip.

Macaroni Penguin: I saw them on two of the three days in South Georgia, but it's always good to see a new Penguin. Penguins can be tricky to see far out to sea & this one was no exception: it quickly dived. I also saw a handful of King Penguins & Gentoo Penguins, but all escaped the camera

Light-mantled Sooty Albatross:

Light-mantled Sooty Albatross: A cracking Albatross

Light-mantled Sooty Albatross: They breed throughout the Subantarctic islands & range as far North as 35 degrees South

Light-mantled Sooty Albatross: The Albatrosses, Petrels & Shearwaters book by Onley & Scofield state that moult isn't well understood for the Sooty Albatrosses, but in line with other species that breed biannually, then they probably moult the inner primaries in one year & the outer primaries in the following year

Northern Giant Petrel: Adult. As they get older they become whiter. The grey cap and white lower face which contrasts with the mottled underparts helps to confirm this as a Northern Giant Petrel

Northern Giant Petrel: Adult. Additionally, the darker bill tip confirms the identification (Southern have a uniform pale greenish bill). I've noticed a number of the Seabirds have drips of water on their bill which is how they remove excess salt

Kerguelen Petrel: Good to see more of these Pterodroma Petrels

Kerguelen Petrel: Upperwing shot

Fairy Prion: At last a decent Prion photo. The well defined M shape on the wings, broad tip to the tail, white underwing & pale grey sides to the breast that gently merge into the rest underparts help to identify this species

Fairy Prion: Not a sharp photo, but it does show the underparts

Common Diving-petrel: Diving-petrels are not easy to identify in this part of the South Atlantic, but I think this one is a Common Diving-petrel. In fresh plumage, South Georgia Diving-petrels have while scapulars & white fringes to the secondary coverts & a contrasting pale upper collar which contrasts with the greyer supercilium. The collar & facial pattern is more uniform on Common Diving-petrel

Common Diving-petrel: All photos are of the same individual. The strong bill & protruding feet also point towards Common Diving-petrel

Common Diving-petrel: This looks to have a dusky grey patch on the upper sides of the breast again pointing towards Common Diving-petrel (whereas South Georgia Diving-petrels have less of a grey patch on the sides of the upper breast). South Georgia Diving-petrels are also expected to show a cleaner white underwing

Wilson's Storm-petrel: The all dark belly & pale crescent wingbar identify this as the world's commonest Storm-petrel

Wilson's Storm-petrel: The white rump extends around the sides of the body to the edge of the vent and the long legs again help to identify this species

South Georgia Shag: It was no surprise to see another South Georgia Shag towards the end of the day

There were a couple of mandatory briefings in the afternoon: the zodiac & biosecurity briefings. The zodiac briefing was fairly quick & focused on getting in & out of the zodiacs safely & only moving quickly in & out of the zodiac when we were told to do so. We were also told to ensure that we had both hands free, but it was surprising the number of people who thought hands free still allowed them to carry a large camera in their hands.

Iceberg: This very large iceberg was my first iceberg. Even at over a couple of miles away it looked very long. The photo doesn't do it justice, but it extended to the right hand side of the photo

Iceberg: Close up of the edge. We would have liked to get closer as sometimes Snow Petrels or other Antarctic Seabirds can hang around these big icebergs, but this wasn't possible this time

Biosecurity is taken very seriously in South Georgia & Antarctic to ensure that anybody going ashore doesn't carelessly take any seeds or other plant material ashore. Fruit & other similar foods were also banned from being taken ashore. So it was good to see a thorough biosecurity briefing. This also included how to behave when ashore & not to get too close to the wildlife or stress it. Afterwards, we were called to the observation lounge in groups so we could vacuum clean any clothing or bags we were planning on taking ashore, to ensure there was no plant material attached to them. All the South Georgia landings were expected to be wet, but as the ship had supplied us with insulated wellies for the landings, that wasn't expected to be a problem. In preparation for the trip, I had bought a dry-bag rucksack from Overboard which was excellent. I could get my 7D Mark II and 100-400mm lens, along with the little SX60 in my 15 litre rucksack: an excellent investment & I was hands free. The South Georgia landings were all landing into shallow water, but there is always the chance of a rogue wave or falling over as you get out of the zodiac. More likely was as the zodiacs were moving then waves were thrown up fairly often. Salt water is a killer of camera as one of the other Birders found out to his cost, when he forgot to shut his bag & later found water had been got into the bag. We were ready for our arrival at South Georgia in the morning & looking forward to getting ashore after four days at sea.