10 Dec 25 - Antarctica 25 - Returning Along The Beagle Channel

It was the last full day at sea on our whistle-stop trip to Antarctica. We awoke to find the seas were moderating as we continued sailing towards the Tierra del Fuego. However, it had been another reasonable crossing of the notorious Drake Passage.

Not surprisingly, the ship's flag was looking a bit battered

I spent most of the day on the bridge as it was the best viewpoint to look for Cetaceans. There were a couple of Snowy Albatrosses and a Grey-headed Albatross among the far commoner Black-browed Albatrosses.

Black-browed Albatross

The clear highlight of the morning was another Western Rockhopper Penguin, which was well out to sea from Tierra del Fuego. Presumably, this was breeding on one of the Southern Chilean islands off the Magallanes Province or Cape Horn Archipelago.

Western Rockhopper Penguin: The only other breeding location is the Falkland Islands, which we didn't have the opportunity to revisit on this trip

Western Rockhopper Penguin

As we got closer to the Tierra del Fuego coastline, we started to encounter the first Chilean Skuas and large numbers of Imperial Shags. However, few were close and while the bridge provided a good viewing location, the glass windows made photography a challenge.

Chilean Skua: This monotypic species breeds along the coasts of South Chile & South Argentina and they range North to the coasts of South Peru & central Brazil outside of the breeding season

As I've got plenty of good Seabird photos from my two previous trips on the Plancius, I was focusing on looking for Cetaceans. Unfortunately, we didn't see any as we sailed towards Tierra del Fuego. A lone South American Sealion was the only Marine Mammal seen, before we reached the start of the Beagle Channel.

Finally, the Chilean coast (on the left) and the Argentinian coast came into view

Finally, we reached the entrance to the Beagle Channel in the afternoon. I was expecting this to be good as I've seen a reasonable selection of Cetaceans in this area. I was not disappointed. There was a Fin Whale with a second Whale blowing next to it, which was presumably a second individual. Also, a single Sei Whale and another unidentified blow. However, it was the Dolphins who put on a real show for us. In total, I saw thirty Dusky Dolphins, five Peale's Dolphins and another ten that were one of these two species. The first pods of Dusky Dolphins weren't close, but that didn't stop them being entertaining.

Dusky Dolphin: It's a pity these Dusky Dolphins weren't close to the ship

Dusky Dolphin

Dusky Dolphin

Dusky Dolphin

Dusky Dolphin: This pod were closer, but weren't they weren't feeling acrobatic

During the afternoon, we said goodbye to the three helicopters as they departed for their home base. I guess, it made more sense for them to depart in the outer Beagle Channel when the ship could manoeuvre to allow them to depart, rather than closer to Ushuaia when we had a pilot onboard.

One of the helicopters departing

The helicopters did a final flypast, before they departed

I had deliberately had a good lunch as I knew I would be skipping dinner, as well as, the Captain's final drinks. As I was in a good area for Cetaceans, I didn't want to miss this opportunity. Finally, we reached the Penguin Island and I was keeping a close look out for the Commerson's Dolphins that I had seen on the boat trip to Penguin Island. Unfortunately, I didn't see them. It was only when I was much closer to Ushuaia before I finally left the bridge.

The Penguin Island beach

The Rock Shag colony on Penguin Island

It's not just the wildlife, but the other fellow travellers on the ship, that makes these trips enjoyable. Thanks to all these passengers and the Expedition staff for being good company.

Nick, the other Birder on the trip and his partner, Caroline, talking to one of the Chinese passengers

Australian Anne, two of my cabin mates Rob and Zac, Janet & Clive

Expedition Leader Pippa

It had been a great trip. While we couldn't get far South into the Weddell Sea, I had seen three of the four Emperor Penguins that we seen. The other key species I was hoping to see were Antarctic Petrels and my first Crabeater Seal, which I had missed on the previous Antarctic trip. The stunning views of the Type B (Large) Orca were unforgettable. Finally, although I didn't land on the Antarctic Peninsula, I was pleased to have been able to land for the first time in the South Shetland Islands.

The Expedition Staff team: Shan, Allan, Saskai, Jess, Sam, Beth, Wei and Gary

We docked in the late evening in Ushuaia and stayed on board for the final evening. There was an early call for breakfast during the follow morning. Soon after breakfast, the ship was cleared for us to depart. I caught the ship's bus to the airport, where I spent the rest of day catching up with emails etc, as I hadn't wanted to be distracted with emails etc while I was at sea. I caught my early evening flight to Ushuaia that evening and arrived in the domestic airport about 22:00. I jumped into the pre-booked taxi which took me to a local uninspiring hotel for the evening. The following morning, I got the hotel to arrange an early morning taxi back to the domestic airport for breakfast, before my mid-morning flight to Trelew for the final leg of the Argentinian trip.

30 Nov 25 - Argentina 25 - Penguin Island In The Beagle Channel

This is my third and final Blog Post in the trilogy covering the boat trip down the Beagle Channel to Martillo Island (Penguin Island). The first Post covered the islands just outside of Ushuaia where there are breeding colonies of Imperial Shags, Rock Shags and South American Sealions. The second Post covered the other Seabirds and a small pod of Commerson's Dolphins seen on the trip down to Martillo Island.

This boat was running about fifteen minutes ahead of our boat, to stagger visits to the various locations

Our skipper slowly parked the boat onto the beach at Martillo Island. The loafing around Penguins were clearly used to this and were completely unfazed by it.

Magellanic Penguin: Looking to the right where some of the Magellanic Penguin were resting

Magellanic Penguin: Magellanic Penguins dig out burrows under the bushes for their nests

Gentoo Penguin: There was also a compact Gentoo Penguin colony further back on the island

Magellanic Penguin: These Magellanic Penguins were only about ten metres from the boat and they didn't move as it was beached

Magellanic Penguin: Adult. This adult barely opened an eye as we beached

Magellanic Penguin: Juv. Zooming in on one of the juveniles

Magellanic Penguin: Another juvenile

Magellanic Penguin: There were also some Magellanic Penguins in the shallows

Magellanic Penguin

Magellanic Penguin: Looking in the water for food

Magellanic Penguin: The water is clear enough to allow a photo of this individual swimming underwater

Magellanic Penguin: Adult. They breed from coastal central Chile & central Argentina to Cape Horn & the Falkland Islands and winter as far North as South East Brazil

Magellanic Penguin: Thinking about going into the water

A closer view of the Gentoo Penguin colony.

Gentoo Penguin: This is the nominate papua subspecies which breeds locally in Tierra del Fuego, as well as, on the Falkland Islands

Fortunately, there were one or two photogenic Gentoo Penguins around the water's edge.

Gentoo Penguin: There are other two subspecies which breed on South Georgia and in the Antarctic Peninsula & neighbouring islands, respectively, with a third subspecies breeding on Macquarie Island & the South Indian Ocean islands of Prince Edward, Marion, Crozet & Heard Islands

Gentoo Penguin

I didn't realise it was possible to land on Martillo Island. Looking into this option, there is an operator who can land up to fifteen visitors. However, at just under three hundred quid per person, it's three times the price I paid and it would be hard to justify paying that price to get a bit closer to the Gentoo Penguins, if you were planning on a Southern Oceans trip.

Tourists with the Gentoo Penguins

There was a small colony of distant Rock Shags nesting on the cliff behind the left end of the beach. Other Birds on the beach includes some Imperial Shags, a few Upland Geese and a handful of Chilean Skuas.

Imperial Shags

Chilean Skua: They have a capped appearance. This monotypic species breeds along the coasts of South Chile & South Argentina and they range North to the coasts of South Peru & central Brazil outside of the breeding season

Chilean Skua: Like all Skuas, this one is on the lookout for an unguarded egg or chick

As we left, I spotted this navigation buoy with a few Rock Shags breeding on it, as well as, a few South American Sealions at its base.

This was a popular navigation buoy

A close up of the Rock Shags

A close up of the South American Sealions

We returned to Ushuaia about mid-afternoon and I wandered off to find a late lunch, before heading back to the flat. There were a couple of old Routemaster buses which are used for tourist runs around Ushuaia.

An old Routemaster bus: The colour scheme just looks wrong

An old Routemaster bus: Another thing that is wrong is having doors on the bus. The great thing about the Routemasters, is you could run after them and jump aboard a moving bus, if it had already pulled away. This was in the days when nobody worried about Elves and 'Elf & Safety wasn't as big a worry as today

I spent the rest of the day in the flat catching up on emails, backing up photos etc, as the next day I was headed off to Antarctica.

31 Jan 23 - The Antarctica Trip - Returning Along The Beagle Channel

This is the final Blog Post from the Falklands, South Georgia and Antarctica trip. The previous Blog Post covered the large Whales and a few Birds that were seen as we entered the outer part of the Beagle Channel. We still had the rest of the afternoon and early evening until we were in sight of the port of Ushuaia. I stayed on deck, barring a quick dash for coffee, biscuits and a toilet break until I could see Ushuaia. I had missed the final late afternoon's drinks with the Captain and the starter at dinner, before I finally raced into the restaurant for my final dinner. I was hoping for a repeat sighting of Barna's Burmeister’s Porpoise, that he had seen and photographed on the first evening, but it didn't happen. Another reason to consider another trip to the Southern Oceans.

Hungarian Wildlife Guide Barna: Barna photographed a Burmeister’s Porpoise in the Beagle Channel on the first evening of the trip which was an excellent sighting and a frustrating dip for the rest of us who were still socialising at dinner. I will do my best to avoid making that mistake if I can get back to Ushuaia again

The Azamara Pursuit heads down channel to Antarctica: With the capacity to carry seven hundred passengers and another four hundred crew, this ship is far too large to allow the passengers ashore. But would they want to be distracted from the onboard casino and other attractions

The Argentinian side of Tierra del Fuego

A distant lighthouse on the point of the Chilean Barlovento Island

Another view of the same lighthouse

As we carried on up the Beagle Channel we passed the historic Estancia Harberton area, where there is a large Magellanic Penguin colony. This excellent site can be visited by road or on one of the many tour boats that can be booked from the Ushuaia waterfront.

Magellanic Penguin: Part of the Estancia Harberton Magellanic Penguin colony. More details of this colony can be found in a previous Blog Post

Magellanic Penguin: Adult

Magellanic Penguin: Juveniles don't have the black face of adults

The Argentinian Mountains to the East of Ushuaia

Black-browed Albatross: I saw about four hundred Black-browed Albatrosses in the Beagle Channel

Black-browed Albatross: The boats to Estancia Harberton must be one of the most accessible ways to get great photos of Black-browed Albatrosses

The historical Cemetery at Mejillones on the Chilean Navarino Island: This cemetery dates to the first half of the 20th Century and contains the remains of the indigenous Yahgan people who were associated with an Anglican mission in this area

South American Sealion colony: These colonies can be easy seen on one of the Ushaia boat trips

Chilean Skua: We were back in range for Chilean Skuas

The clear highlight of the Inner Beagle Channel were the pods of Dusky Dolphins. Many of the closer pods came into bow wave and swim alongside the sides of the Plancius. It was an excellent finale to a fantastic trip.

Dusky Dolphin: They are a small Dolphin no more than two metres in length with a very short, black beak, dark eye, distinctive markings and a pointed falcate dorsal fin with a paler grey rear edge to the fin

Dusky Dolphin: They were clearly identifiable underwater

Dusky Dolphin: They occur around the coasts of Western South America, Tierra del Fuego, the Falklands, the Southern-most coast of South Africa, the coasts of the Southern half of Australia and New Zealand

Dusky Dolphin

Dusky Dolphin

Dusky Dolphin

Dusky Dolphin

Dusky Dolphin: These two Dusky Dolphins were just logging at the surface

Finally, everybody else left for the free drink with the Captain and I had the top deck, the Dusky Dolphins and the Black-browed Albatrosses to myself.

Finally, Ushuaia comes into view: It was time to race to the restaurant for my final dinner

Although we were docked in Ushuaia, we stayed onboard that night and didn't disembark to the following morning. I spent the morning in an internet cafe catching up with the news after nearly three weeks of no wifi connection. The wifi was prohibitively expensive on the Plancius and I can't see why I would want to be online, when I could be on the bridge wings. Early afternoon, I headed off to the airport for my evening flight back to Buenos Aires. I had a pre-paid hired car booked which I had to collect at an airport hotel. I got to the hotel to find that car company had pulled out of using the hotel several months earlier and were only in the city centre, over an hours' drive away. With no prospect of a hired car, I booked into the hotel for the night. The following morning I returned to the airport, but the handful of other car hire firms had their cars booked out. So, the rest of the day was spent at the airport catching up on my Birding notes. After several months, the pre-paid car hire money was finally refunded by my credit card.

A final photo of Tierra del Fuego from the Plancius: It's tradition to finish on a sunset. But this out of focus photo, which looks a bit artistic, will have to do. As I was sorting my photos, I found a number of distant photos were out of focus. It wasn't to a week into my next trip to New Zealand, that the problem was identified. The mounting bracket on the 100 - 400 mm lens was lose and sometimes the camera wasn't focusing properly at infinity. Fortunately, this was an easy fix and my glasses screwdriver also works on the camera lens