28 Jun 2026

25 Jan 26 - ORCA Canaries Cruise - The El Capricho Villa: An Early Gaudi Project

This was our fourth day of being stuck in Santander, due to the continuing very rough seas off the Portuguese coast. To keep the passengers occupied, the ship had laid on a number of coach trips to Santander and surrounding places of interest. On the third day, the options had been coach trips to Santillana del Mar or to the Guggenheim Art Gallery in Bilboa: which I had visited or had no interest in visiting, respectively. I took the opportunity to do some planning for the runs ashore in the Canaries and Madeira, as by now the Captain was saying we would be departing in the early hours of 26 Jan and these islands were back on the plan. On our final day in Santander, there was a coach trip to explore the nearby coastal town of Comillas which sounded tempting.
The was another lovely sunrise over the hills to the East of Santander
Meanwhile, it was still dark in the direction of the port
Thirty minutes later, there was a rainbow over Santander: The weather was still very changeable. However, the forecast was for a sunny, but breezy, morning and a wet afternoon
It was time to head to the lower deck and see if we could get onto the Comillas coach trip. The ORCA team are part of the entertainment team. We are only allowed on coach trips, if there is space when the coaches are about to depart, as quite rightly the passengers get priority for the trips.
Black Redstart: This Black Redstart was sitting on a coppery-coloured roof by the dock entrance and it was a quickly snatched photo through the coach window
It was about a forty minute drive to Comillas. We were dropped a few minutes walk from the centre of the town. On the journey, our guide told us that Comillas used to be a small fishing village, until in the second half of the 1800s, the first Marquess Antonio Lopez y Lopez invited King Alfonso XII to his mansion. The King liked the climate and the Spanish royal family started spending their summers there, followed very soon, by the Spanish nobility and other court followers. This resulted in a large number of opulent houses being built in and around the town.
The main university building is perched above the town: It was originally built in 1890 to train new priests, but now it teaches a wider range of courses
Some more of the great-looking Spanish cantilevered windows
The town square
We past this historic cafe
A close-up of part of the cafe
Within a few minutes, we reached our main destination, the El Capricho villa. This was one of the first buildings that Antoni Gaudi designed and built. Gaudi went on to become the architect of the famous Sagrada Família church in Barcelona. The El Capricho villa was built between 1883 and 1885 for the summer use of Maximo Diaz de Quijano, although he died a year before its completion. It turned out to be a stunning building. Surprisingly, the building eventually fell into disrepair, before it was turned into a restaurant and finally it become a museum in 2009.
The El Capricho villa: It doesn't give away too much at this point
The El Capricho villa: It's a modest-sized house for a wealthy owner at the time
Looking back down the main path
The main entrance is even more impressive with this stunning tower
There was a large stone grotto in the back of the garden
This statue to Gaudi was added in 1989
Another impressive garden feature
The building is covered in these bright individual-looking tiles: Our guide said these tiles were mass produced by moulds, but were then hand-painted to give them their unique look
It was time to have a look inside the El Capricho villa, which was as stunning as the outside.
There was a large conservatory on South facing side: It was filled with plants
Another view of the conservatory
Not surprisingly, the formal rooms were stunning
Another room
The attention to unique detail continued on the ceilings
The original contents of the large bathroom had been removed when it was converted into the restaurant's kitchen: However, the windows remained
The ceiling in the music room
After walking around the rooms, I thought we had seen most of the villa. However, there were two narrow winding stone staircases that lead to the upper floor. This was a real surprise to discover.
There was a lot of space in the upper rooms and the most impressive rafters I've seen
The Casa Calvet bench: Designed by Gaudi around 1900
The Casa Calvet chair: Designed by Gaudi around 1900
The upper rooms were narrower than the house, to allow for the conservatory roof.
An upper door lead to a walkway on the roof
The roof provided better views of the tower
A close-up of the tower: Maybe it was added to give those all important sea views, as we are some distance from the sea
A portable garden music kiosk designed by Gaudi: This was designed and built in Comillas for a nearby villa. Our guide said at some point, it was taken to Madrid and sadly, all traces of it have now been lost
Next to the El Capricho villa is the chapel-mausoleum of the Marquises: This houses the mausoleums of first Marquess Antonio Lopez y Lopez, his wife and brother
There was still time to have a quick look around the town. We decided to leave the rest of the passengers and have a quick walk down to the beach.
One of the streets that led to the beach
The last street led to this square
Looking back on the square
Another good-looking balcony
We are still heading to the beach
We ended up walking past a park where there was a large cage in one corner containing several Macaws. What I wasn't expecting to see was one of these Macaws had escaped and was flying around the area. The owner was out calling to it and trying to encourage it to return.
A Red-and-green Macaw was not on the Bird bingo card when I left the ship
Red-and-green Macaw
finally, we reached the beach, where the sea conditions were still looking grim.
Looking left along the beach
Looking right along the beach
Note, just about all of the flats are shut up: Many of these flats are just holiday accommodation or second homes, which is taking the life out of these North Spanish towns at this time of year
It was time to head back to where we would meet the coach.
The Palace of Sobrellano: A palace which started being built for Antonio Lopez y Lopez, but only completed after his death
A distant photo of the status to the first Marquis of Comillas Antonio Lopez y Lopez: He was the guy who put Comillas on the map
The Winged Angel statue on the town's cemetery
Churches in Cobreces: A quick photo from the coach as we passed this church complex
The coach trip got us back to the ship in time for a late lunch. My plan was to have a look around Santander and head to the nearby Prehistory and Archaeology Museum. However, the wind really started to whip up and it started raining, at which point I cancelled my plan in favour of a lazy afternoon. The captain told us that evening that suddenly the wind was gusting at seventy knots for a short period and the bridge crew were forced to engage the engines to keep station alongside the quayside. This allowed the ship to not break its moorings. However, the port's gangplank was damaged during the gale force winds. It was only after the wind had abated, that a ship's gangplank could be deployed to allow a number of passengers who had gone ashore to reboard the Spirit of Discovery. The most eventful event of the sudden gale was one of the moored bulk cargo ships broke her moorings and ran aground. Two tugs were attempting to rescue her as the winds subsided. In the circumstances, damaging the gangplank didn't sound too bad.
We were pleased to see the ORCA team's presence on the ship being advertised on the communal TV screens
On a positive note, this was the last big storm to hit the Spanish coast and the Captain was planning to leave Santander at one the following morning. We were still going to have a four to five metre swell almost as soon as we left the harbour. However, it was good to be back on the move again.

24 Jun 2026

23 Jan 26 - ORCA Canaries Cruise - A Cunning Plan Part 3 - Into The Foothills

Due to the very rough seas off the Portuguese coast, the Spirit of Discovery had been forced to seek sanctuary in Santander for a few days. I decided to hire a car for our second full day in Santander and explore a few local sites. It was good that Chris and Fiona decided to join me as this reduced the car hire costs. Our first location had been the excellent Altamira Cave. The next obvious choice was the nearby small touristy town of Santillana del Mar, which was less than a ten minute drive away. After a couple of hours exploring Santillana del Mar, we were ready to leave by mid-afternoon. There was enough time to head towards the Picos de Europa foothills for a quick look. I could see there was a road running South from Cabezon de le Sal, that appeared to head into the foothills to the South of Saja. This looked to be the best option to get some views of the Picos de Europa in the time we had available.
Griffon Vulture: A poorly exposed photo. By the time I had sorted some better camera settings, all the Griffon Vultures had climbed or were more distant
As we got into the countryside heading towards the foothills, we bumped into a Griffon Vulture circling over the road. Fortunately, there was a nearby pull-in and in the next few minutes, the spiralling Griffon Vulture count increased to six, along with several Red Kites and another Griffon Vulture perched in a tree.
Griffon Vulture: This is the nominate fulvus subspecies which occurs from North West Africa and the Iberian Peninsula to the Middle East
I wasn't sure if we would get to see any snowy views when we got higher, so it was worth a quick roadside stop on a lower side road. This proved a worthwhile stop, as there were a few more Red Kites and a nice Male Black Redstart.
Distant snowy hilltops
A small rural Spanish village
Another rural view in the lowest valley leading to the foothills
Black Redstart: Male. This is the same gibraltariensis subspecies that we see in the UK, which occurs throughout Europe, Turkey and Northern Africa
A local Horse
As we climbed out of the lower valley, the road passed through extensive forests. Finally, we passed the one thousand metre altitude and we were above the treeline.
Just above the treeline
Finally, we were high enough to see some snow: These photos don't show how cold and windy it was
Some distant snowy hilltops
It was time to head back to Santander and drop the car off. It had been an enjoyable day trip.