Day 3 of the North Atlantic Odyssey saw the Plancius arrive into Aderdeen, where we were due to pick up the rest of the mainly British passengers. We were due in port around breakfast time and I headed up to one of the bridge wings for our approach, as we had been briefed to expect a local welcome. Just outside the port, were at least two hundred and fifty Kittiwakes and about three times the number of Guillemots.
It was time for us to head into the harbour.
The Girdle Ness Lighthouse
Aberdeen harbour and the waterfront to the North
Eider: Trips to Scotland are good as I rarely see Adult Male Eider in Dorset
Eider: There were around fifty by the harbour entrance
Scaup: Male. I Wasn't expecting to see a Scaup. RBA doesn't mention many Scottish sightings in June, so this appears to be a reasonable record
Unfortunately the main welcome committee hadn't shown up, but they appeared for our departure: which will be covered in a future Blog Post. We were called for breakfast just after we entered the harbour. The ship has laid on a couple of coaches to take us to the nearby Ythan Estuary and the cliffs at the Bullers of Buchan. This seemed a much better option that walking around Aberdeen. I had to do that once and wasn't enamoured by the city centre. Once the ship had cleared customs, we were called to disembark. This sole piper was there to greet us. Perhaps the other local pipers had headed off to cheer Scotland on in the World Cup.
This wee lassie did a good job piping us ashore
After a twenty-five minute journey, we arrived at the Newburgh Inn on the South side of the Ythan Estuary. A site I remember well, having travelled to see my first UK Sooty Tern in the Tern colony in July 2018. It was a three quarter mile walk down to the sandy estuary. We walked down the car park track and onto a boardwalk, until we reached the final Seal viewing area. There is a Sandwich Tern and Arctic Tern colony about half a mile further upriver on the North bank of the estuary, but the colony is too far away for good photos. I decided against walking upriver to get closer. Both Tern species flew distantly along the channel to the sea, along with four Little Terns (which also breed locally).
The upper part of the Ythan estuary close to the Seal viewpoint
Looking up the estuary from the Seal watching beach
There was a large group of Eider with fourteen Goosanders roosting over one hundred metres away on the sands on the North shore opposite our viewpoint.
Some of the Goosander with the larger Eider flock
The key attraction of the estuary was the Grey Seals. There is a big colony here with individuals basking at various points on the beaches on the North side of the estuary. Some of them were swimming past, while others were stopping and looking at us.
Grey Seal: This one was checking us out
Grey Seal: An inquisitive Grey Seal
Grey Seal: This individual is showing off the classic Alsatian-like head shape of a Grey Seal
Grey Seal: Another inquisitive Grey Seal
Grey Seal: They have the ability to close their nostrils
Grey Seal: On views like this, they can be separated from Common Seals by having parallel nostrils
Looking towards the seaward beach on the North side of the estuary
Grey Seal: There was a large group of Grey Seals on the seaward-facing North beach
I walked along the beach to join expedition guide Esther who I travelled with to Antarctica in Jan 2023. At one point, this small Grey Seal pup appeared right next to the beach to have a look at Esther and myself. It was right in the tide line and a bit worrying that it was checking out the Southern beach where the public are allowed to visit, whereas the North beach seems to be reserved for wildlife.
Expedition guide Esther enjoying the Grey Seals
Grey Seal: Pup. This gorgeous pup decided to check out the Southern beach
Grey Seal: Pup. It looked like it was wanting to come out onto the beach
Grey Seal: Pup. Soon after this, the Grey Seal pup headed back into the channel
At one point, a lot of the Terns started alarm calling. It didn't take long to spot the culprit: a fishing Osprey. Clearly, these local Terns had still not appreciated that Ospreys are never going to be a threat to anything other than a large Fish.
Finally, it was time to head back to the coaches. But we still had an afternoon visit to the Seabird cliffs at the Bullers of Buchan ahead of us. I will cover this visit in the next Blog Post.