9 Feb 2024

9 Feb 24 - ORCA Saga Caribbean Calypso Day 23 - An Unexpected Pterodroma Tick

After our eight days of landings in the Lesser Antilles, it was good to be back at sea on the Saga Caribbean Calypso cruise. Every day on our return crossing, we were on deck from dawn to dusk, apart from breaks for breakfast & lunch.
We were on deck at first light which had the benefit of seeing the sunrise
We had little reward for the nine hours we put in on deck on the first day out at sea. During the day, I saw: one distant Tropicbird sp., two Masked Boobies, a few Mirrorwing Flying Fish, some unidentified large Flying Fish (that were probably the same species), a Smurf, but no Cetaceans.
Masked Booby: This was the species of the day. It isn't fully adult, as it still has some black flecks in the white colouration
There was a four metre swell and I thought that might have been the cause of the complete lack of Cetaceans on the first day, as even the largest of Whales can disappear in a four metre swell. However, Charlotte announced on the noticeboard that today was "National Cetacean Snorkelling Day". Perhaps this was influenced by the Captain's daily lunchtime briefing to the ship, with the weather, significant birthdays and stating it was "National Sticky Pudding Day" or something equally fictitious.
Who knew about "National Cetacean Snorkelling Day"?
It was a good job we were on deck at dawn on the second morning, as there was a most amazing sky that morning.
This must be the most amazing dawn sky I've seen
All ORCA teams on Saga ships need a tall surveyor to clean the glass screens: The crew washed the decks dawn pre-dawn. But on this morning, Jan asked if they could wash the glass screens for us, while Terry did a great job drying them
Our second day at sea, was very similar to the first. Despite another nine hours or so on deck, I only saw: the first two Cory's Shearwaters of our return crossing, a White-tailed Tropicbird that came past without stopping, a single Masked Booby, a few more Mirrorwing Flying Fish and a Smurf. It was another day of scant reward for the effort we put in.
Masked Booby: Like the previous day's individual, it isn't fully adult, as it still has black flecks in the white colouration
Masked Booby: This is the nominate dactylatra subspecies which occurs in the Caribbean and South West Atlantic. Will it be the next new Seabird for the UK to be found by Bob Flood?
White-tailed Tropicbird: This is the catesbyi subspecies which breeds on Bermuda, the Bahamas, the Greater Antilles, the Virgin Islands & the Lesser Antilles. A second Atlantic subspecies breeds on Fernando de Noronha & Ascension
White-tailed Tropicbird: The White-tailed Tropicbird bombed past without stopping
White-tailed Tropicbird: Even if you cannot see the bill colour, it is easily identified as a White-tailed Tropicbird as Red-billed Tropicbirds do not have the black band on the inner wing
White-tailed Tropicbird: Oddly, the best view of the upperwing pattern was when it was further away
The second evening ended with a good sunset: I wonder if there was some high Saharan dust or volcanic dust in the air
No two sunsets are the same: It's always nice to be on deck until last light, in case it's a memorable sunset
I thought our third day at sea would be quieter than the first two. We were too far out from the Caribbean to continue to see some of the Caribbean Seabirds and I was just expecting a few more Cory's Shearwaters. We had already passed out of range of the Magnificent Frigatebirds and my predictions were correct, as there were no more Boobies or Tropicbirds, with the Cory's Shearwater tally increased to five.
Trindade Petrel: This was a largely white Pterodroma Petrel with a white throat, pale grey breast band, white underwings and a black M, with the black continued onto the axillaries
What I wasn't expected to see were some small Pterodroma Petrels, which all passed the ship at a few hundred metres range. No surprise there, as most Pterodromas I've seen fly past, rather than are attracted to, the ships I've been on. The first two appeared together after a long quiet spell and they were quite confusing. One was clearly a Pterodroma Petrel with light-medium brown upperparts, light-medium brown underparts with a large white belly and a dark underwing with a white under patch on it. It was trailed by a second all-dark individual. My initial reaction to the all-dark individual was maybe it's a Sooty Shearwater, so I ignored it and focused on the white-bellied Pterodroma Petrel. I was confident it was a small Pterodroma Petrel that I didn't recognise. A quick check against photos online confirmed the white-bellied Pterodroma Petrel was my first Trindade Petrel. It wasn't on my radar for the trip, but eBird confirmed that they were likely to be in this area of the Atlantic outside of the breeding season. I was frustrated that I hadn't managed to get any photos of it. I tried, but didn't manage to get the camera on exactly the right bit of the sea. I also realised I had forgotten that Trindade Petrel had an all-dark phase and the individual I had largely ignored was an all-dark Trindade Petrel. In hindsight, that made a lot more sense than a much larger and different-shaped Sooty Shearwater.
Trindade Petrel: Bermuda Petrel shows a similar underwing pattern, but the black M stops before the obvious white axillaries
Trindade Petrel: The normal all-dark morph is all brown with pale flashes primaries on the underwing. The white-bellied morph has a broad brown throat and breast, a white belly and brown on the vent and undertail. There is a white band along the length of the wing on the primary and secondary underwing coverts. These are the only two morphs I've seen described in books
Less than an hour later, another Pterodroma Petrel appeared. It was even whiter than the previous white-bellied Trindade Petrel. This time I quickly lifted the camera and got some photos, despite it being equally distant. I had a quick look at the photos. They confirmed this was clearly a Pterodroma Petrel with light-medium grey upperparts, a whitish underwing with a black M on it. This one was a different species and it definitely, wasn't any of the Western Palearctic Pterodroma Petrels, a Trindade Petrel or was a Soft-plumaged Petrel. That only left Black-capped Petrel or the really rare Bermuda Petrel as possibilities. I assumed it was a Black-capped Petrel, but decided I needed to check the book and photos on line later.
Trindade Petrel: This shows the extent of the black axillaries and also the white throat and grey breastband
By the end of the day, I had seen three Trindade Petrels: one all-dark and two white-bellied individuals. I had also seen two of the largely white under-winged Pterodroma Petrels with the black M. But, I only managed to photograph one of them. The photos show what is clearly a Pterodroma Petrel, with light-medium grey upperparts and a whitish underwing with a black M on it that continues into the axillaries. It clearly wasn't a Black-capped Petrel, as it didn't have the distinctive black cap, pale collar and pale rump. It equally wasn't a Trindade Petrel as it was different to the white-bellied and all-dark Trindade Petrels I had seen that day. On the face of it, it looked superficially similar to Bermuda Petrel, but while the photos show they have the black M, the black stops before the armpit and their axillaries are white. Plus, this rare Pterodroma Petrel should be on the Bermuda breeding grounds now, albeit these could have been non-breeding immatures. But there was enough to suggest that it wasn't a Bermuda Petrel. The only Seabird field guide I had with me: the excellent "Oceanic Birds of the World" photo guide by Howell & Zufelt, but all that did was to eliminate all the potential Pterodromas around the world. I worried over the photos and looked online and I was none the wiser. Terry sent the photos to a couple of Cornish Birders he knew, but they came back with Fea's Petrel or Zino's Petrel. I was one hundred percent confident it wasn't one of those species. In the end, I grouped the photos up and emailed Bob Flood for some help. I didn't get a reply and as I hadn't seen anything from Bob for a while on twitter, I came to the conclusion he was probably away at sea. I would just have to wait until I heard from Bob or I got home with access to more books.
Trindade Petrel: Note, even the vent is white compared to the white-bellied morph
I was none the wiser for the rest of the trip about these two mystery Pterodroma Petrels, despite more online researching. When I got home I looked at the excellent "North Atlantic Seabirds: Pterodroma Petrels" by Bob Flood and Ashley Fisher. The main text and photos for Trindade Petrel reinforces the two colour morphs of Trindade Petrel that we had seen. The book describes the light morph, which is what I'm referring to in this Blog Post as the white-bellied morph. Then by chance, I looked at the rest of the book and found a photo on page 32 of an even whiter morph Trindade Petrel, which looked very similar to the individual I photographed. It was mentioned in a section showing how some species can have light and dark morphs. But, the main Trindade Petrel text didn't reference this photo or show other photos of this morph. Finally, I came to the conclusion that the two mystery Pterodroma Petrels were most likely Trindade Petrels and there are three morphs of the species: an all-dark morph; the white-bellied morph; a third morph that I had photographed, which the books don't mention. It was made all the more confusing by the normal term for the white-bellied morph being called the light morph, thus suggesting their couldn't be an even whiter morph. I think I had an answer in my mind. But it was still speculation in my mind, based upon one very grainy photo on page 32 of Bob's Pterodroma book.
Trindade Petrel: The wing looks to be in moult with darker old outer primaries and shorter inner primaries
Finally, Bob returned from his long sea trip and he had chance to respond. He confirmed it was "a Trindade Petrel, there is more variation than currently shown in literature and he attached a photo of a similar individual taken on Trindade Island". In the end I was glad that Bob had been at sea, as it gave me the chance to have a thorough read of the literature I had, to find that photo on page 32 and to come to the conclusion it was likely to be a Trindade Petrel. But I was also really glad to get the confirmation from Bob, as I couldn't find anything to one hundred percent confirm my suspicions. That's the great thing about Birding, is the post observation investigations and learning, coupled with the all-important photos from the field. So, the final tally for the day was five Trindade Petrels: one all-dark individual, two white-bellied individuals and two of these much whiter individuals. Birding would be boring, if all we had to do was to read a number of the side of a Bird, like train-spotters can do with serial numbers on a train carriage.
Trindade Petrel: They breed on the Brazilian Trindade & Martim Vaz Islands seven hundred miles East of the Brazilian coast
Our position at sea for the first two Trindade Petrels
When faced with Seabirds like this confusing Trindade Petrel, there is always a dilemma. When the Seabird is going away and I am struggling to figure it out with the bins, do I keep watching it and hope it will turn or do I lift the camera. On some occasions, I've tried the camera and failed to get it to focus correctly or for me to pick up the Seabird in the right part of the sea. But sometimes when I'm struggling to see that fine detail to confirm the identification, then the camera works and provides the evidence to get to a correct identification. Fortunately, this was one of the occasions when the camera option worked. Three other occasions when the camera worked really well were:
Terry doing some public engagement with two of our regular visitors Monica and passenger Terry: Terry's wife Penny joined Charlotte in watching for Cetaceans
When we left the Caribbean, we were expecting to be back at sea for five days, with the Azores as our next destination. That day, the Captain announced there was a big storm that was scheduled to hit the Azores close to our visit. Consequently, he had replanned the route and we would be spending seven full days at sea. Our next landing would be La Coruna, in North West Spain instead. We had experiencing four metre swells since leaving the Caribbean and we didn't need even rougher seas on the Azores route. A couple of different passengers said this was their third Saga cruise, where they had failed to reach the Azores. Unfortunately, I would have no chance of seeing my first Azores Bullfinches and Azores Chaffinches.
We have now got another four & a half days of surveying until we see land
Day four at sea from the Caribbean to North West Spain was a very quiet and uneventful day, despite the ORCA team spending another nine hours of so surveying. My only wildlife sightings were a final white-bellied Trindade Petrel and a single Cory's Shearwater during the morning. I also saw my first Cetacean since leaving the Caribbean, but it was a frustratingly brief sighting of a probable Beaked Whale sp. During one of my off duty rotations, I went to explore the deck below the top deck. There was some interesting art work, but it wasn't a great observation deck as the roof of the bridge obscured too much of the forward view. After taking a few photos, I decided the top deck was the better viewing location.
Terry keeping an eye out
Art work on the deck below the top deck
The rest of the art work
Another sunset when there wasn't a repeat of the Green Flash
Towards late afternoon, the temperature suddenly dropped and it got rougher. We must have been on the edge of the rougher weather heading for the Azores that afternoon.

6 Feb 2024

6 Feb 24 - ORCA Saga Caribbean Calypso Day 20 - Antigua: Our Final Caribbean Landing

Our final Caribbean landing was to St John's, the capital of Antigua. Antigua is the main island in Antigua and Barbuda. The country comprises these two main islands, with a few more small islands. The size of the two main islands are forty-six and sixty-two square miles, respectively. Virtually all of the ninety-eight thousand population live on Antigua, with under two thousand living on Barbuda.
The early morning view over Antigua
Sunrise over Antigua
Magnificent Frigatebird: Female
Magnificent Frigatebird: Juvenile
Magnificent Frigatebird: Juvenile
There is only one endemic species in the country, which is limited to Barbuda: the aptly named Barbuda Warbler. It looks an easy species to see if you could get there. However, Barbuda is about thirty-three miles from St John's. While there is a daily ninety minute ferry service, it leaves at 06:30 in the morning, returning mid-afternoon. It would not be possible to day trip as the cruise ships won't dock early enough in the morning.
Parts of the island looked lush and under-developed: But most of the island is well-developed
Fortunately, there was a potential Caribbean endemic Tick on Antigua for me: West Indian Whistling-duck. On paper, they occur throughout the Bahamas, Greater Antilles and Northern Lesser Antilles. However, I had failed to see any on my first two trips to the Caribbean. I couldn't find a reliable site when we visited Jamaica, Puerto Rico and the Dominican Republic on the first trip. I had no realistic chance on the second visit, as they are vagrants to St Lucia and Dominica. So, I was pleased to see there were a couple of potential sites close to St John's according to eBird.
Fort James protects the St John's harbour: Construction on Fort James began in 1706 and was completed by 1739
Part of the main defences at Fort James
There are still a few cannons in Fort James
There were plenty of other ships in the harbour: The P&O Britannia with one of the new Norwegian Cruise Line ships behind, which have around three and a half thousand and three thousand passengers, respectively
The Royal Clipper came in behind us: We bumped into her in Martinique
The luxury Ritz-Carlton Evrima: This super-yacht hosts around three hundred passengers
I had got well practiced at chartering taxis in the Caribbean, but I struggled on this occasion. I needed to go to the pools by the Galley Bay Hotel which was only six miles or so from St John's. I asked the taxi drivers outside of the port for a price to take me the twenty minute drive, give me a couple of hours there and then return me to the port. The prices were far too steep and none of the drivers would budge. I guess they were holding out for an even more expensive charter from one of the other cruise ships. I ended up walking further into the town and well away from the port, before I found a less greedy taxi driver, who was prepared to charge a reasonable and fair price for both of us.
Heading to the port entrance
Off we headed and about twenty minutes later we arrived at the entrance gate to the hotel. The hotel staff on the gate weren't going to let me into the hotel without a reservation. Sometimes you can get access if you want to visit the restaurant, but clearly not here. We tried a bit further along the road and fortunately, the road climbed up a hill which overlooked the hotel lakes. I asked the driver to park up and got the scope out and sat on a rock. Initially, all I could see was a distant Blue-winged Teal and a closer Yellow-crowned Night Heron.
The view over the lakes within the Galley Bay hotel complex: The West Indian Whistling-duck was on a small island at the rear end of the far lake
Yellow-crowned Night Heron: Juvenile. Juvenile Yellow-crowned Night Heron are superficially similar to Juvenile Night Herons. They can be separated by having a dark bill, compared to a pale yellowish bill on Night Herons and finer streaking and spotting than a Night Heron
I kept scanning the lake, but if there were Ducks out there, most were roosting on the islands or tucked out of view in the Mangroves that edged the edged the lake. After a while, a Bahama Pintail swam into view. That at least confirmed that there were other Ducks on the lake. Finally, a West Indian Whistling-duck stood up on a distant island. I tried to get a photo, but it was a quarter of a mile away and just too far even for a record shot. Time for Plan B. As we approached the lake and hotel entrance gate, I had seen a road heading off to the right along the edge of the lake. I walked back to the car to ask the driver to try that road. I found a point I could see the lake. The island was down to sixty metres away now, but I was looking through gaps in the trees that fringed the lake and the West Indian Whistling-duck. It was the same story for the Bahama Pintail, albeit I wasn't so worried about that.
The road alongside the lakes: Somehow I needed to find a big enough gap in the trees to peer through
West Indian Whistling-duck: The obvious white spotting is diagnostic for the species. This monotypic species occurs on the Bahamas, Greater Antilles & Northern Lesser Antilles. However, there aren't a lot of regular eBird records in the Lesser Antilles, so it was good that this individual was hanging around
I had seen my target species and there was little else I was going to see around the hotel grounds. I asked the taxi driver if we could return to the port. It had been a good set of landings in the Lesser Antilles. I had seen eleven Ticks: Audubon's Shearwater, Grenada Flycatcher, Grenada Dove & Lesser Antillean Tanager (Grenada), Barbados Bullfinch & Masked Duck (Barbados), Martinique Oriole (Martinique), Lesser Antillean Saltator & St Lucia Black Finch (St Lucia), Imperial Parrot (Dominica) and West Indian Whistling-duck (Antigua).
Bahama Pintail: This is the nominate bahamensis subspecies which occurs in the Caribbean & coastal Northern South America from Colombia to North East Brazil. They are also known as White-cheeked Pintail, but I got to know the species as Bahama Pintail and have stuck with that name
Bahama Pintail: Here is a better photo of a pair at Estancia Harberton, Argentina (27 Mar 18). This is the Southern rubrirostris subspecies which occurs from on the Pacific coast from Ecuador to central Chile and from Eastern Bolivia to central & East Brazil & South to Argentina. To my eyes the two subspecies look similar
The only dips has been Bridled Quail-dove (scarce and elusive on most islands), White-breasted Thrasher (St Lucia). Additionally, White-breasted Thrasher had been recently split on Martinique, but they occur in the dry arid bush on the East coast of the island and there wasn't time to visit both the Martinique Oriole site as well as to look for the recently split Martinique Thrasher. The final Tick for me was Black Swift, but I would need to visit later in the year during their breeding season. Alternatively, I have a good chance of seeing them if I ever get to the West coast of the US or Canada during the breeding season.
Heading back to the Spirit of Discovery
I was back on the ship for a late lunch and I caught up with Jan, Charlotte & Terry. Jan, Terry & I decided to have a final walk into town, while Charlotte planned for a restful afternoon. As we were only heading around the shops, I didn't bother taking the camera. That proved to be the wrong decision as we ended up walking along some Mangroves with a few Green-backed Herons and a few hundred Cattle Egrets. We also saw an endemic Watts's Anole, posing on a gate post: which was easy to photograph with the IPhone.
Watts's Anole: This endemic Lizard is restricted to Antigua & Barbuda. It has been introduced to St Lucia, but it is currently restricted to the Castries area, the capital of St Lucia
We were going to spent the evening in the port and depart after we had eaten. The ship was having a farewell to the Caribbean buffet. As part of the entertainment team, we were expected to turn up late for it, so that the guests had the prime seats for the buffet and entertainment. That suited me fine as we could have some time on deck, even if we were only looking from the port.
A view over the edge of St John's
Brown Pelican: This Brown Pelican was more focused on its appearance, than posing for a photo
The end of day noticeboard: Jan, Charlotte and Terry had arranged a trip on a swimming with Stingrays boat, where they had seen plenty
The final Lesser Antilles sunset
The buffet was in full swing when we came off deck at dusk
An impressive display at the buffet
Our eight days of island hopping was over. Tomorrow we would be back to a full day of surveying on deck from dawn to dusk, except for breakfast & lunch. I was looking forward to getting back to sea again for the next few days with the Azores our next destination in about five days' time. Albeit it didn't work out that way due to the weather.