3 Jul 2024

3 Jul 24 - A Few Hours In St Peter Port, Guernsey

In a previous Blog Post, I covered my first Wildlife Officer, WLO, role for Marinelife on the crossing from Poole to Guernsey. I had about three hours to wander around St Peter Port before returning to check in for the return crossing on the Condor Ferry Liberation.
The Condor Liberation: We survey from the starboard bridge wing, whilst the Wildlife Officer is positioned on the upper deck
My plan was to head for the impressive looking Castle Cornet on the far end of the harbour breakwater. It's an easy walk that is just over a mile in distance. There is plenty to look at and photograph in this lovely looking port.
Castle Cornet: From the ferry (10 Aug 24)
A panoramic view of the pleasure boat part of the harbour
I decided it was quicker to walk, than to wait for the train
Victor Hugo's Statue: Victor Hugo was the famous French author who wrote 'The Hunchback of Notre-Dame' and 'Les Miserables'. He lived in exile in Guernsey from 1855 to 1870 following his criticism of Napoleon III
Approaching Castle Cornet along the breakwater: Castle Cornet was built on an island in the 1200s, by King John to protect Guernsey’s harbour from the French. The breakwater was added following the end of the Napoleonic Wars
German Pillbox: The Germans made significant changes to Castle Cornet with a number of pillboxes and gun positions added during WWII
The tell-tale gun slits of another WWII defensive bunker on the breakwater
Condor Ferry Voyager behind the boating lake on the breakwater
The boating lake: As I left there were groups of small schoolkids learning to sail in this boating lake
Finally, I stopped taking photos & I reached Castle Cornet. This is a castle with four museums inside its walls: the Castle Museum, the 201 Squadron (RAF) Museum, the Royal Guernsey Light Infantry Museum & the Royal Guernsey Militia Museum. The entrance fee allows entry into the Castle along with all the museums.
A close view of Castle Cornet from the breakwater
The entrance gate to Castle Cornet
Aerial photo of Castle Cornet: This sign hangs by the entrance gate. Many castles have a confusing set of paths in them, which were designed to make navigation complex for any attackers who had got through the main gate. Meanwhile, the defenders would know how to rapidly move around the castle and attack anybody who had just made it inside
Wall plaque commemorating the sea action in 1794: The action of 23 Apr 1794 took place between a British squadron of five frigates and three French frigates and a corvette during the French Revolutionary Wars. Three of the four French ships were captured in the engagement
One of the inner walkways
A panoramic view of some of the older parts of the castle: The central part is the Medieval Curtain Wall which dates to c1220. Parts of this were destroyed during fighting in the English Civil War. Castle Cornet was the final castle to surrender to Cromwell in 1651, having been under siege for the previous eight years
This is the Gunners Tower which dates to 1435: The projecting stones would have supported a parapet and there are gun ports for two cannons
Officers' Quarters: These Officers' Quarters date to c1625. They were later used to hold Cromwell's deputy, General Sir John Lambert, when he was exiled and imprisoned in the Castle from 1661 to 1671 by King Charles II
This looks Napoleonic era to me
Castle Cornet has a good defensive view over the harbour
The view over the inside edge of the harbour
The lighthouse at the end of the Castle Cornet breakwater
Gorgeous red flowers growing on the site of the Old Keep: The Old Keep was totally destroyed in 1672 following a lightning strike on the Keep which caused an explosion of gunpowder stored in the Keep
Some of the outer walls of Castle Cornet
Looking down from the Castle Cornet walls: This groove in the rocks looks man-made. Perhaps it was used to bring supply boats into the rocks when the castle was still on an island
Herring Gull: The soldiers that patrolled the walls have now been replaced by a few Herring Gulls. This individual was interested in my rolls, but I had clocked it & they were safely eaten
Herring Gull: It hopped up the steps in the hope of food, but at least it provided an excuse for another view of the inner walls
There is a good selection of cannons on display around the castle to provide examples of the types of defences that would have been in use in the different eras of Castle Cornet.
A line of seven replica Saker cannons: These cast-iron Saker cannons which are copies of an original dated 1601 which is held at the Tower of London. The guns fire salutes on special occasions, including the Monarch's Birthday
Looking down on the South or Water Battery: The original barrel is a 1764 24 pounder, which has been mounted on a reproduction traversing carriage built to authentic specifications
An artist's impression of a gun battery in the Castle museum
Russian Cannon in the Well Tower: The Well Tower was built in 1535 & it protects the beach and a potential landing area below the tower. Additionally, it protecting the castle from attack from the sea. This Russian Cannon is a trophy of war which was confiscated from Russian forces after the fall of Sevastopol in Sep 1855 during the end of the Crimean War. Putin will want this back in a year or so to send to the Ukraine front line, given how fast he is burning through old military equipment. Currently, fifty year old tanks and armoured vehicles are appearing in Ukraine
This gun position dates to about 1870: It would have supported a 40 pounder gun. However, it has been partially cut through by a 1940s German position
The Castle Museum had excellent display boards and a model showing some of the phases of the castle's defences over the last eight centuries.
An artist's impression of the original 13th Century Castle Cornet
An artist's impression of Castle Cornet around 1450
A model of a later phase of Castle Cornet: This model shows the layout of the castle in the 16th Century. There may have been additional buildings, however, evidence of these were destroyed when the keep exploded in 1672
Changes to the castle's defences never stopped from its initial 13th Century design. Therefore, it is no surprise that the Germans added a number of defensive gun batteries and accommodation for the soldiers who were stationed in Castle Cornet. Sensibly, the allies bypassed the Channel Isles with their landings on the Normandy beaches and they blockaded the Channel Islands. The Channel Islands formally surrendered on 10 May 1945, two days after the surrender was agreed in Germany.
One of the concrete bomb shelters that the Germans added during their occupation
Inside the concrete bomb shelter
This Museum model shows one of the French assaults on the castle
Finally it was time to wander back to the ferry terminal to check-in for the return trip to Poole.
The road by the harbour
A few of the colourful shops
Finally, I was back on the Condor Ferry Liberation and back into the Marinelife Wildlife Officer role & chatting to passengers before we departed for Poole.
A final view over the town from the Condor Ferry Liberation
I would like to thank Condor Ferries for making me welcome on the Liberation and for allowing Marinelife to have a Wildlife Officer onboard for this crossing from Poole to Guernsey.