26 Aug 26 - The End Of An Era?

I drove down to Bodmin Moor to my usual off the A30 sleeping layby on Tuesday evening. I set an early alarm call to allow me to finished the final hour of the journey to Penzance for my nineth ORCA survey to the Scillies. I met the rest of my team and we were quickly onboard. It proved to be a calm crossing with a gentle swell of under one metre, but mist was problem in the majority of the outbound crossing. Finally, the mist cleared as we reached the Scillies. Sightings were sparse, but one of the other surveyors saw a Sunfish and we all enjoyed views of a pod of four Short-beaked Common Dolphins, just before I was about to end the survey as we passed Old Town Bay. While we don't survey for Birds on the ORCA surveys, it would have been rude not to spend a few seconds looking at a Sooty Shearwater and a Cory's Shearwater as we approached St Mary's. Chatting to some Seabird surveyors on the back deck, they had seen another fifteen or so distant Cory's Shearwaters earlier in the crossing, but we weren't there to look for Seabirds.

Scillonian III in Hugh Town

The predicted drizzle didn't materialise which allowed me to wander around some of my old Birding haunts along Porthloo Lane, Lower Moors and the Old Town churchyard. There were a few common migrants around, with a Pied Flycatcher in Porthloo Lane as the highlight.

The Porthloo Lane duck pond was dry: It's good there was a small tray of water for the Ducks and Moorhens to get a drink

We were quickly back on the bridge and it was clear that the return crossing was going to be more of a challenge with a stiff South Easterly wind. It was a warm wind, but there was no respite for the surveyor on the starboard wing. Fortunately, the port surveyor could get out of the wind by sheltering near the bridge superstructure, while the recorder enjoyed the shelter within the bridge itself. Unfortunately, we didn't record any Cetaceans on the way back and my Avian highlight was an Arctic Skua which belted South.

There was some lovely artwork celebrating the service from Scillonian III: Like many passengers, my early crossings on the Scillonian III in the 80s were spent trying to avoid being seasick. However, I'm a confident sailor these days and I've not had a problem for many years

Sadly, this is my last scheduled ORCA survey for this season. So, unless I get offered a late notice backfill opportunity for an ORCA survey or I end up going down to Scillies for a day trip to see a rarity later this Autumn (a showy Wilson's Snipe or Ovenbird please), this will be my last crossing on the Scillonian III. Next season she is due to be replaced with a new ship, which will have an enclosed bridge. This might mean we get a more-pleasant crossing whilst surveying, but I will miss the 'Old Girl'.

I would like to thanks the two skippers that I've travelled with, Dave and Vicky, as well as, their wonderful crews, for the welcome they have given to the ORCA teams while I've been onboard. I will miss the Scillonian III.

19 Jun 25 - Starting The Day With An Otter

My primary purpose for the Scottish trip was to lead two ORCA surveys on CalMac ferries to the Western Isles. I had only been on these routes as a passenger and I was looking forward to the opportunity to survey on them. The office team put me in touch with one of the Scottish Team Leaders, Bill Anderson, to have a chat about both routes. I followed that up with further conversations when I met up with Jan Storie, my first Saga ORCA Team Leader. Both sets of advice were really helpful, given I hadn't surveyed on these routes before.

The first survey route was a morning return trip from Uig, on North Skye, across to Lochmaddy, on North Uist. This was followed by an afternoon return crossing from Uig to Tarbert, on Harris. The survey was a success with a Minke Whale, a distant unidentified Whale blow, thirty Short-beaked Common Dolphins and two unidentified Dolphins. The survey team was made up of two surveyors on their first survey, with Cristina only on her second survey. It was a really successful survey, with all of the team quickly picked up the survey and bridge protocols and everybody quickly gelled as a team. Given it was a busy survey, I needed to focus on mentoring the team and so the camera didn't leave its bag.

The North Uist and Harris team: Cristina McAvoy, myself, Lily Goodwin and Uzume Michels

The day wasn't over for Uzume and myself when we disembarked, as our second survey was leaving from Mallaig the following morning. It was a one hundred and sixty mile drive between the ports, via Fort William. It is possible to knock one hundred miles off that route by taking the short ferry crossing from Armadale, on Skye, to Mallaig. Unfortunately, that ferry doesn't run in the evenings. I finally dropped Uzume in her hostel in Mallaig about eleven that evening. I was reluctant to pay for a second night in a hostel and after a bit of searching I found a quiet-looking layby next to a coastal bay at Loch nan Uamh, for a good night's sleep in the Focus Hotel. I awoke the following morning about six to find flat calm conditions in the bay. There was a Grey Seal that was hauled out on some rocks in the bay. While I was having breakfast and brewing a hot drink, I saw an Otter swimming close to the layby. I quickly dashed for the camera and managed to get a few photos, before it swam out of view.

This early morning Otter was a nice start to the morning

It was a good layby with Grey Seal, Otter and a couple each of Common Sandpipers and Arctic Terns

Once I had finished breakfast, it was a thirteen mile trip back into Mallaig. I managed to find a nearby on road parking spot close to the CalMac terminal and I walked down to meet the rest of the ORCA survey team. This was a more experienced team with Neil Ross, who was starting his Team Leader training, Jane Forsyth, an experienced surveyor and Uzume excited to be on her second survey in two days. It was another great survey team which again gelled well together.

The Memorial to those lives lost at sea stands next to the terminal building: It looked a bit out of place in its surroundings. Perhaps, this working area is realistic, given that most of those lives lost will be working sailors and fishermen

The crossing from Mallaig to Lochboisdale on South Uist is a longer crossing, which allows about two and a half hours of surveying each way. It proved to be even busier than the first survey, with sixteen Minke Whales, fifty-eight Short-beaked Common Dolphins, an unidentified Dolphin, nine Harbour Porpoises and a Grey Seal. Again, the camera didn't have the chance to leave its bag.

The ORCA survey team: Myself, Neil Ross, Uzume Michels and Jane Forsyth

It had been a great couple of surveys, with the bonus Otter in-between. I will be volunteering to survey on these routes in future years. I would like to thank the CalMac for allowing the ORCA survey teams onto the bridges. It was time to head back to the Central Highlands, as the weather forecast for the next two days looked good for catching up with the Scottish Dragonflies. It was getting on for midnight, when I pulled the car back into the Beinn Eighe layby, that I had slept in three nights earlier.

2 Jun 25 - Croissant Time In Roscoff With ORCA

It was nice weather for my third ORCA survey on the Roscoff - Plymouth route and the third ORCA survey that I've led, since I was signed off as an ORCA Team Leader at the end of 2024. I met the rest of the team, Julie, Sara and Mark, the previous evening in Plymouth at the Brittany Ferry terminal. We had a quick boarding and a good overnight crossing on the Armorique. It's a slow overnight crossing to ensure that the ferry arrives in Roscoff at the reasonable local time of 08:00. The ferry didn't depart from Roscoff until 15:00 and so there was plenty of time to have some food and a walk around the attractive old town.

There are some nice architectural features on the local houses: The curves roofs look really good

It's a gentle thirty minute walk to the cafes by the old harbour from the ferry terminal.

Looking across the old harbour towards the lighthouse

The Cafe Ty Pierre: My favourite cafe which does a nice French breakfast with an obligatory croissant

The cafe ceiling

The cafe is located on the quayside, just below the Mk, on this upside down ceiling photo

Gannet: We saw a few during the survey on the way back to Plymouth

After breakfast, we had plenty of time to have a stroll around the town.

The start of the old main street beyond the cafes: This is the chocolate shop

The chocolates look great, but they aren't cheap

This old neighbouring building looks like it needs a fair bit of TLC

The elaborate spire of the Notre-Dame de Croaz-Batz Church

It looks like Roscoff suffers the same problem with holiday homes as many UK coastal towns

The bay which separates the Perharidy peninsula from Roscoff

The inner part of the same bay

It was time to head back to the cafes area for an early lunch.

The ORCA team waiting after some lunch: Julie Bunt, Sara Amos, Mark Delf and myself

This looks a more decorative, than defensive, lookout

The old harbour lighthouse

The 17th Century Chapelle Sainte-Barbe built to protect local sailors

The Fort de Bloscon: It was built in 1694 to protect the channel between Roscoff and the island of Ile-de-Batz from English invasions. It was decommissioned at the end of the 19th Century, before being reactivated during WWII. It is now privately owned with no public access

We were back onboard early afternoon and we allowed up onto the bridge soon after we departed the port. It was a busy crossing with twelve groups of Dolphins, with the totalling forty-five Short-beaked Common Dolphins and a further two unidentified Dolphins. There are no photos as I didn't take the proper camera, as I wanted to focus on the surveying and mentoring of the team.

Short-beaked Common Dolphin: I took this photo on the return journey of my last Roscoff survey (7 Oct 24)

7 May 25 - A Spring Day Trip To St Marys With ORCA

I was scheduled to be leading a team of ORCA surveyors from Penzance to St Mary's on 23 Apr 25. Unfortunately, the survey had to be postponed at the last minute, due to a weather warning which predicted three metre seas and thirty knot winds around the islands. Thanks to a hectic period of passenger bookings around the Easter and May Bank holidays, it took a while before the Scillonian could host us, but we were finally on for the first Weds in May. Fortunately, one of the original surveyors, Sarah Matthews, was still able to support the survey and Julie Bunt stepped in at short notice as the third surveyor. It was a quiet crossing with favourable seas and weather, but no Marine Mammal sightings and low number of Seabirds. This was something that the skipper Dave mentioned had been a feature of the last two weeks of mainly Easterly winds. Still it gave the team the chance to setting into the paperwork side of the survey, as well as, following the survey protocol itself. The reality is a survey with no sightings is always useful training and useful data.

Passing close to Peninnis on our approach to Hugh Town

I finished the survey a few minutes later, as we were getting close to our final approach into Hugh Town. This allowed us to get out of the bridge and stand out of the way on the bridge wing. As we were getting approaching the final turn, we saw this nice looking sailing ship. I pointed out a Shag on the water and then raised the bins to have a quick look at it. A good job I did, as it was actually a cracking summer plumage Great Northern Diver.

This sailing ship was moored just outside of Hugh Town Harbour

Great Northern Diver: This is only the second summer plumage Great Northern Diver I've photographed, albeit the first was hardly a summer date given it was 26 Oct 15

We had sailed a few minutes early and arrived about fifteen minutes early thanks to the calm seas.

The ORCA survey team: Myself, Julie Bunt and Sarah Matthews. The photo is published with Sarah's permission and the copyright for the photo remains with Sarah

Our departure time had been brought forward from 16:30 to 15:00. Therefore, there was no time to lose once we got ashore to have a wander around St Mary's. Sarah and Julie were planning to meet up with a friend of Sarah's who lives on St Mary's. My plan was to head to the Old Town Churchyard, walk along Lower Moors and have a quick look at Porthloo Lane, if time permitted.

The island's climate allows many sub-tropical plants to thrive

Old Town Church: I've spent a lot of time looking in the Old Town churchyard trees, but I think the only goodie I've seen in the trees was a Red-eyed Vireo back in the 1980s. Additionally, I did see my first White-speck in the churchyard in Oct 23

The next stop was a quick look at Lower Moors. The pool from the first hide was quiet, except for a pair of Coots feeding three youngsters.

Coot: Adult with small youngster, whilst nervously watching two Herring Gulls on the pool

I carried on along the Lower Moors. The trees and reedbeds were looking great, with singing Warblers, including, a Chiffchaff, a Willow Warbler, a few Reed Warblers and Blackcaps. Finally, I reached the screen by the Shooter's Pond, where a pair of Moorhens were feeding a couple of youngsters.

Lower Moors: The trail passes through some great-looking trees

Lower Moors: It's never this dry in October

Moorhen: Adult with small youngster

Moorhen: Adult with small youngster

Part of the Lower Moors trail leading to the road at Porthloo Lane

I still had a bit of time to wander down Porthloo Lane. I tried to cut through on the footpath to Porth Mellon beach, but I lost the path and ended up at Harry's Walls. Despite all the days I've spent wandering around on St Mary's in the 1980s, it was my first visit to the site. Harry's Walls are the remains of an unfinished artillery fort, started in 1551 by Edward VI, which was started to defend St Mary's. There was time for a quick photo, before I had to retrace my steps and find the road to Hugh Town.

Harry's Walls: I will have to return for a longer look on a future visit

It's hard to believe this excellent-looking Porthloo garden is in the UK

I had time to grab a coffee before getting back onto the quayside for 14:00. Julie and Sarah appeared soon after and we were quickly back on board the Scillonian. As we were departing Hugh Town there was time for a quick photo of the luxury cruise ship, Le Bellot, that was also visiting the islands that day.

The luxury cruise ship Le Bellot: She had to moor in the channel and ferry passengers ashore

We departed on the route between the islands and the skipper pointed out the regular location where they see Seals in the water around Menawethan, the final island of the Eastern Islands. On range these are going to be Grey Seals, but the four we saw were too far away to specifically confirm their identification, so they were logged as probable Grey Seals. About half way back to Cornwall, Julie and Sarah saw another Seal at sea which was a nice sighting to get. I was surveying from the other bridge wing and missed it. They joys of surveying is you aren't always in the right place to see everything. However, I did pick up a pod of three Short-beaked Common Dolphins as we were close to Mousehole and fortunately, Sarah saw them as well from her bridge wing. It's always good when everybody in the team gets to see at least one sighting on a survey.

I would like to thank the Captain Dave, First Officer Matthew, Purser Gail and the rest of the crew for making us so welcome on the Scillonian. It had been a successful and enjoyable survey.

7 Oct 24 - Breakfast In Roscoff With ORCA

In early evening on the previous day, I met up with the Team Leader Neil Best, Judith Brown & Chloe Figueroa Ashworth at the Brittany Ferry terminal in Plymouth for an ORCA survey on the ferry Armorique to Roscoff. As the ferry left Plymouth in the dark, I ran through the survey briefing and then we headed off to get some sleep.

Judith Brown, Chloe Figueroa Ashworth, Neil Best & myself

There was a wakeup call at 06:00 UK time to let the passengers know we would be docking in an hour. It was only a few minutes before the cabin alarm was due to go off anyway. Time for a quick cuppa of tea, before Neil & I met up with Judith & Chloe. We were quickly off the ship & through customs with plenty of time to explore Roscoff.

The Armorique in the early morning Roscoff light

Roscoff is my favourite of the Brittany ferry destinations as it's a lovely-looking town. It took us about twenty-five minutes to walk into the centre: slowed down a bit by a few photographs.

The Roscoff Lighthouse: Building started in 1914 & it was finished three years later

The Eglise Notre-Dame de Croaz-Batz: This impressive looking church was built between 1515 & 1549, with the bell tower added twenty-six years later

We took the coastal footpath to the town centre which took us past the delightful Chapelle Sainte-Barbe.

Chapelle Sainte-Barbe: This chapel was built at the start of the 17th Century to Saint Barbe to protect departing sailors

Chapelle Sainte-Barbe

The old town has lots of nice-looking houses in the distinctive local architecture: This house was next to the Chapelle Sainte-Barbe

Speckled Wood: We saw good numbers along the coastal footpath

I was pleased to see the Cafe Ty Pierre, that I had visited on my previous visit in May 23, was open. Time for a leisurely French breakfast of fresh baguettes, a croissant, orange juice & a large coffee.

The Cafe Ty Pierre

The Cafe Ty Pierre has a great ceiling with a fishing map and local fishing boats stuck to the ceiling

Another local fishing boat: This would have made a great ceiling when I was a small kid

Having had a filling breakfast, it was time to have a walk around the old town and some of the beaches.

The town isn't very large

The road next to the cafe

The old road to the Eglise Notre-Dame de Croaz-Batz

A closer view of the Eglise Notre-Dame de Croaz-Batz

The Ile de Batz lies just offshore of the town and must help to protect the harbour.

A panoramic view of the Ile de Batz

The Eastern end of the Ile de Batz: It would be interesting to visit this island on a future trip. It looks like one of the outer islands in the Scillies

The Ile de Batz's lighthouse

A control tower on the Ile de Batz

We were expecting it to be cloudy & perhaps wet, so sunny conditions with clear skies and no wind were a bonus. Albeit given the time of year, I knew this nice weather wouldn't last. Sadly, I was proved right as clouds had drifted in on a Northerly breeze by late morning.

Looking across to the Perharidi Peninsula: We saw eight Dark-bellied Brent Geese, as well as, four Pale-bellied Brent Geese in this bay.

As we walked back we bumped into the Station Biologique de Roscoff. It is a marine biology & oceanography research teaching centre, which was founded in 1872. It is part of the Sorbonne University & is affiliated to the Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique.

The Station Biologique de Roscoff

A newer wing of the Station Biologique de Roscoff

We were soon back in the square by the Eglise Notre-Dame de Croaz-Batz: There was time to have an final coffee at one of the other cafes by the port, before we had to walk back to the port

We arrived back at the ferry terminal with plenty of time before we were called to reboard the ferry. It was time to get ready to start the surveying. It proved to be a good survey. I saw over one hundred and twenty-five Short-beaked Common Dolphins out of over one hundred and fifty-four individuals. After crossing to the UK side of the Channel, I saw the singles of Cory's Shearwater and Great Shearwater, as well as, a couple of Bonxies, but there were no more Dolphins. Unfortunately, it was dark around an hour before we reached the Plymouth South breakwater. This last hour is usually good for Cetaceans, but without luminous markings, it was time to leave the bridge.

Short-beaked Common Dolphin: Showing the characteristic inverted black triangle below the dorsal fin

Short-beaked Common Dolphin: Not the sharpest of photos, but the thick bridge glass can make any photography tricky

I would like to thank to Brittany Ferries for allowing the ORCA survey team onboard the Armorique and to the bridge crew for making us welcome. Also, thanks to Neil, Judith and Chloe for making it a memorable survey.

Unfortunately, we didn't find any gold treasure on this survey