6 Sept 2025

30 Jan 25 - ORCA Saga Eastern Med Cruise Day 11 - Birding In Akrotiri, Cyprus

I was looking forward to our third run ashore in Limassol, Cyprus on the Saga Eastern Mediterranean Cruise. Limassol lived up to the statements I had heard in advance of our visit: it was an uninspiring industrial port and city. However, it is within walking distance of my penultimate British Overseas Territory in the Old World: Akrotiri and Dhekelia. After I wrote this Blog Post in Spring 25, the British Indian Ocean Overseas Territory is in the process of being handed over to Mauritius, so I soon will have visited all of the Old World British Overseas Territories. This is split into two separate locations with Akrotiri being on a peninsula close to Limassol in the South West of the island and Dhekelia being adjacent to the disputed border of Greek and Turkish Cyprus. Both contain UK military bases.
Sunrise off Limassol: Although, we were too close to Limassol to get any surveying in, we were up to see the sunrise
Once the pilot was onboard, we were soon entering the breakwater
Grey Heron: Just two of eighteen that were loafing around on the breakwater
I've not seen a floating dock before
The fancy immigration buildings which seemed a lot bigger than they needed to be
As the Spirit of Adventure was docking, we headed off to breakfast. There wasn't a big hurry, as the ship's team still needed to clear all the immigration checks. Secondly, once the gangways were open, we needed to give a bit of time for those passengers booked on early tours time to get off and as part of the entertainment team, we were expected to give the passengers priority in disembarking. My plan for the day was to walk to Lady's Mile Beach, which was inside the Akrotiri part of the British Overseas Territory. It was just under a two mile walk to the border. I ended up walking over eight miles ashore, as I explored Lady's Mile Beach. It was a bit like travelling in Schengen countries in Europe. There is an open border between the British Overseas Territory and Cyprus, and it's possible to walk across the border without any checks. There is a big RAF base within Akrotiri and there will be checks closer to the base, but I wasn't going to walk that far.
The walk to Akrotiri took me past uninspiring docks: Once I got out of the port, the walk was very dull. Perhaps I should have asked to borrow one of the ship's electric bikes. However, it was a good excuse to stretch the legs and I did see at least one Snake-eyed Lizard in this unexciting edge to the pavement. It looked like a dull-coloured Sand Lizard
Confirmation I was heading in the right direction
I turned left two roundabouts along the main road, after the above sign, and after a few minutes' walk, I was in the British Overseas Territory. This is my penultimate British Overseas Territory in the Old World, albeit follow the continuation of discussions, started by the tories (which their leader is now denying they initiated) the final Old World British Overseas Territory of Diego Garcia, might end up being returned to Mauritius. However, as the British are looking to retain a military base there, what remains might still be classified as an even more difficult British Overseas Territory, to visit than it is now. Currently, it's only possible to visit on a small yacht, after a lot of paperwork to get access.
Confirmation I was in the British Overseas Territory: I headed for Lady's Mile which is a three mile long beach
There was a decent dirt road just inland from the beach
There were a number of saline pools inland of the dirt road: They looked great for Waders, but I failed to see any. Terry tried another path further inland later in the day & closer to the Salt Lake and found a party of Kentish Plovers and Little Stints. However, he also got very badly bitten by Mosquitoes, which weren't too much of a problem at Lady's Mile
There was plenty of these low scrubby bushes surrounding these pools: I was hoping for some Birds in these bushes, but there was little activity, other than a few Crested Larks, Meadow Pipits and Stonechats
Crested Lark: This is the cypriaca subspecies which is restricted to Cyprus, Karpathos & Rhodes
Crested Lark
Stonechat: This is the nominate rubicola subspecies which occurs in West & Southern Europe, North Africa to the Middle East
Stonechat: It is replaced in Britain, Ireland, coastal West France & the West coast of the Iberian Peninsula by the hibernans subspecies that I see in the UK
Hooded Crow: There were a few flying around, but none stopping to be photographed. This is the sharpii subspecies which occurs from mainland Italy to the Balkans, Asia Minor, North Iran & Kazakhstan
The stoney beach wasn't the most attractive of beaches: But there were a few interesting Insects to photograph
Small White: Disappointing to travel all the way to Cyprus only to find the White is a species I get in the garden back home
Small White
Painted Lady: Another regular species back home. Presumably, the offspring of this individual will be heading North when they are adults
Yellow Carpenter Bee: Female. The yellow is restricted to the thorax in the females
Yellow Carpenter Bee: Female. The yellow covers the whole body in the males
Yellow Carpenter Bee: Female
Ichneumon Wasp sp.: I'm assuming this is an Ichneumon Wasp. Trying to identify it is going to be too difficult
Ichneumon Wasp sp.: It's a cracking-looking Insect
Ichneumon Wasp sp.
Ichneumon Wasp sp.
Ichneumon Wasp sp.
The real surprise of the day was seeing a U2 spy plane. I had assumed they had stopped running sometime after the end of the Cold War. But it looks like a couple have been deployed from the Middle East to Akrotiri. Perhaps not surprising with all that is going on in Israel and the neighbouring countries at the moment.
U2: This was a real surprise to see as I didn't realise they were still flying
It appeared to be practicing landings and take offs from the base. When I googled U2, I found links to this James May program on the U2. This is well worth trying to find online. I found a bit of the program which described the take off and landings. To save weight, U2s drop the wheels from the wings just after they take off. This helps them to climb to their typical flying altitude of seventy thousand feet. However, it makes landings tricky, as they only have a central pair of wheels and a smaller tail wheel. They need support from ground crew, chasing after them in cars, to guide them to touch down without damaging there very long wings.
U2: It appeared to be practicing landings and take offs from the base
There were a few House Sparrows around a cafe at the Northern end of the beach. After photographing them, my attention was drawn to a Yellow-legged Gull in a party of Black-headed Gulls. I didn't bother looking at the Black-headed Gulls, so it was a nice surprise, when I was editing the photos, to find I had also photographed a Slender-billed Gull in the group. I should have looked at the smaller Gulls properly.
House Sparrow: After bumping into Italian Sparrows on Malta, we were back in range of House Sparrows again
House Sparrow: This is the biblicus subspecies which occurs from Cyprus to Turkey, the Levant, North Saudi Arabia, Iraq & West Iran
Yellow-legged Gull: This is the nominate michahellis subspecies which occurs from the Macaronesian Islands & North West Africa East through the Mediterranean
Yellow-legged Gull: The same individual
Slender-billed Gull: This monotypic species occurs from the Mediterranean to North West India. Some winter in North East Africa
The Spirit of Adventure looks very large: However, few of the town's buildings are tall
This hide overlooked a nice-looking reedbed: There was water tucked inside the reedbed as I could heard Moorhens, a Water Rail & a Cetti's Warbler. But all I saw were a couple of feeding Chiffchaffs. I guess it will be filled with singing Acrocephalus Warblers by Easter
After a dull forty minute walk after leaving Akrotiri, I was back at the ship
We were only heading about fifty miles along the coast to our next destination of Paphos and the Captain decided not to rush our departure. I had enjoyed our time ashore and I was pleased to have visited Akrotiri.

Arguably, Cyprus was also a new country. In 1986, I visited Turkey for three weeks with Mark Ponsford, Nigel Goodgame & Dave Unsworth. When we planned the Turkish trip, we all agreed to go to Turkey to look for Cyprus Pied Wheatear and Cyprus Warbler, with the except of Mark, who had seen both species in Israel. When we reached the port, Nigel & Dave bottled out of going to Cyprus, as we would have had to stay overnight. We had expected to day-trip the island, but we were too early in the tourist season. I caught the ferry to Turkish Cyprus and saw both Passerines, but I only heard Cyprus Scops Owl: which is now treated as an endemic, rather than a subspecies of Scops Owl. Given Turkish Cyprus is an occupied part of the island that isn't internationally recognised by any country other than Turkey, I was reluctant to count it as Cyprus. The Turkish politicians still refuse to take part in the Cypriot parliament, even though the rest of the world considers the island as one country.