28 Dec 2025

29 Nov 25 - Argentina 25 - Some Noisy Locals In Ushuaia's National Park

When I was planning my time in the two days around Ushuaia, there was only one potential Tick for me: Patagonian Tyrant. I checked with one of the local Bird guides, but I was told it was unlikely that I would see any in the Ushuaia area when I was there, as they are best seen in March. Therefore, I didn't expect to see any new Birds. I had decided to hire a car for my first day in Ushuaia and to head off to the National Park for some general Birding.
National Park sign: Signs like this on nature reserves in the UK would be good with no drones, picking vegetation for fires, fishing, dogs or kayaking
My first stop was Lago Roca where there is a forest trail along the edge of the large lake.
Lago Roca: There was still a strong Force 5-6 wind blowing at dawn as I looked out of the flat window. So, it was surprising that by ten in the morning that the wind had almost totally dropped.
Lago Roca: By lunchtime, the wind had dropped completely in the National Park
My first stop was Lago Roca where there is a forest trail along the edge of the large lake. Some familiar faces popped up very quickly as I started walking: Thorn-tailed Rayadito, White-crested Elaenia, Patagonian Sierra-finch and Rufous-collared Sparrow. I knew I had some good photos from my 2023 visit of these species, so I didn't spend long photographing them, despite them being some of the commonest species along the trail.
Thorn-tailed Rayadito: This is the spinicauda subspecies which occurs in central & Southern Chile and Southern Argentina. The remaining subspecies occur on isolated islands of Chile
White-crested Elaenia: This is the chilensis subspecies which breeds from Bolivia to Tierra del Fuego. It is sometimes considered a species, but the latest AviList details it as the Southern-most subspecies of White-crested Elaenia
Patagonian Sierra-finch: This monotypic species occurs commonly from central Chile & Southern Argentina to Tierra del Fuego
Rufous-collared Sparrow: This is one of the most widespread Passerines in Latin America and consequently, I suspect many visiting Birders think they are boring. While they are common, they are also a good-looking New World Sparrow, that would be considered differently if they were a scarce species. They are also one of the first species who's song it is important to learn, otherwise, you will be chasing a lot of songsters only to eventually find they are another Rufous-collared Sparrow
Rufous-collared Sparrow: This is the subspecies which breeds from Southern Chile & Southern Argentina to Cape Horn and winters as far North as Bolivia
This Southern House Wren popped up to see what was going on.
Southern House Wren: This Southern House Wren started singing
Southern House Wren: But it quickly went back to looking for food
Southern House Wren: AviList splits the House Wren complex into Northern House Wren, Southern House Wren and five Caribbean island splits. This is the chilensis subspecies of which occurs from Southern Chile & Southern Argentina to Tierra del Fuego
It was good when this Andean Condor flew over Lago Roca.
Andean Condor: This monotypic species occurs throughout the South American Andes, as far North as Colombia
Further along the trail, there was a very approachable family party of Austral Thrushes.
Austral Thrush: Juv. This is the magellanicus subspecies which occurs South of central Chile & central Argentina. There is a second subspecies on the Falkland Islands
Austral Thrush: Juv. The spotting in the wings indicates it is a juvenile
Austral Thrush: Juv
Austral Thrush: Juv
Austral Thrush: Juv
Austral Thrush: Juv
As I continued along the trail, I heard some very loud cackling from further along the trail: I hurried on. Despite not being familiar with Argentinian Bird calls, I knew this could only be one species. I've only seen Magellanic Woodpeckers once in Los Glaciares National Park on my first trip to Argentina in 1998. I rounded a corner in the path and there was a pair checking out the trees.
Magellanic Woodpecker: Pair. This monotypic species occurs in the Nothofagus forests of South Chile & South West Argentina
Magellanic Woodpecker: Male. They are one of my favourite Woodpeckers
Magellanic Woodpecker: Male
Magellanic Woodpecker: Female
Magellanic Woodpecker: Female
As I walked back to the car, there was a lone Speckled Teal on the lake and a couple of Black-chinned Siskins feeding on the trail.
Speckled Teal: This is the nominate flavirostris subspecies which occurs from North Argentina to Tierra del Fuego, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands
Black-chinned Siskin: This monotypic subspecies occurs from Central Chile & Southern Argentina to Tierra del Fuego & the Falkland Islands
These White Dog Orchids were common Flowers on the forest floor.
White Dog Orchid
White Dog Orchid
Many of the trees had this good-looking Cyttaria darwinii Fungi on them. There were also quite a few trees which google has identified as False Mistletoe in them.
Cyttaria darwinii: This was a common Fungi on the trees along the trail
Cyttaria darwinii
False Mistletoe
It was now getting close to lunchtime and I had a good morning of Ushuaian Birding. I wanted to explore a bit more of the National Park, which I will cover in the next Blog Post.

26 Dec 2025

28 Nov 25 - Argentina 25 - Heading South

Two years ago, I travelled into Antarctica's Weddell Sea. We reached about forty miles away from the Snow Hill Emperor Penguin colony, before we ran out of time and had to return North. With another day in the plan, we could have got close to Snow Hill. But given it was Jan, we were probably too late in the season and the colony would have been empty. Still there was a chance of us bumping into an Emperor Penguin on an ice flow, with the extra time. I spent all my time looking, but I was unsuccessful and I vowed I would have to return to Antarctica. In early Oct, I spotted there was a thirty-five percent reduction on a bunk in a four berth cabin on the Oceanwide Expeditions' ship, Ortelius. The plan was Ortelius would head far enough South into the Weddell Sea to reach the Snow Hill Emperor Penguin colony.
The Andes to the North of El Calafate have plenty on snow on them
Another attraction about this trip, is Ortelius had a helicopter deck and three helicopters which would be capable of landing passengers within walking distance of reaching the colony. I now had my excuse to return to Antarctica. With this last minute reduction, it was the best price that I've seen, in several years of checking prices for an Emperor Penguin trip. To reach an Emperor colony twenty-five years ago, you had to pay about three times this price to fly into Antarctica and camp on the ice or spend a month travelling from New Zealand to Antarctica and back. More recently there have been other trips heading South from Argentina, but they were still beyond my budget. Therefore, this was a near mythical species that I didn't think I would ever have a realistic chance of seeing. I booked the trip as soon as I had confirmed I could also book the flights to Ushuaia.
Lago San Martin lies to the North of El Calafate: A bit further North is the Strobel Plateau, home to another near mythical species: Hooded Grebe. In hindsight, I should have built in extra time to this trip to go looking for this species. We missed it on my first 1998 trip, when a leaking and nearly empty fuel tank forced us to abandon our search
Seven weeks later and I was on a flight to Madrid from Heathrow, before boarding my connecting flight to Buenos Aires. I arrived late evening and was met by the owner of the private house with three flats in the back garden, which were a convenient place near to the international airport. The following morning, I was dropped back at the international airport for the flight down to Ushuaia. There was one stop en route at El Calafate airport. This airport wasn't there when I visited Argentina in the five week trip back in 1998.
Another plane on the El Calafate airstrip
Lago Argentino: Part of the lake by El Calafate. The famous glacier which feeds into this lake is just off this photo
Fortunately, my main luggage arrived safely at Ushuaia, which wasn't the case for at least one of the passengers who bordered the plane at El Calafate. When I arrived, I decided to hire a car from Hertz for the next day. A wise decision as the owner of the flat I had booked for the next 3 days in Ushuaia, gave me a real run around, before I finally managed to get into the flat. I would recommend that anybody seeing the Departamento Bahia Grande flat on Booking.com, give the place a wide berth. While it looked good on the website, trying to use the cooker, tripped the electrics in the flat. Something the owner knew about, but couldn't be bothered to do anything about fixing or warning the guests. While I knew how to reset the electrics, not everybody would know that. Additionally, the decor in the flat felt more like student, rather than tourist, accommodation. Still I was in Ushuaia and had two full days of Birding ahead of me.

25 Dec 2025

25 Dec 25 - Happy Christmas 25

Happy Christmas 25 to all the readers of the Blog
Chinstrap Penguin: Deception Island, South Shetlands, Antarctica