30 Jan 2025

14 Feb 24 - ORCA Saga Caribbean Calypso Day 28 - A Valentine's Day Bryde

Day five at sea from the Caribbean to Spain on the Saga Caribbean Calypso was uneventful for me. Fortunately, the seas had returned to the normal four metre swells after the rougher seas of the previous late afternoon. It seems a lot of swell, but the Spirit of Discovery wasn't uncomfortable in that swell. But as we headed East, and a bit further North, the daily temperature dropped each day. We were still doing our all day dawn to dusk surveys, with the only breaks being for breakfast and lunch. A few Cory's Shearwaters provided my only Avian interest during the day. Additionally, Charlotte & I saw a lunge feeding Whale pass down the port side: the identification wasn't clinched, but it was probably a Humpback Whale. Unfortunately, the views weren't sufficient to identify it and as nobody managed to get any photos, it had to be logged as an unidentified Whale. That's the problem when the seas have a strong swell, even large Whales at a distance can be lost in the waves. A lone Smurf was the nearest I got to any Flying Fish all day.
This dead Moth sp. was found today on the deck: Presumably it's a Caribbean species
We were back on deck at dawn to start our surveying on day six at sea from the Caribbean to Spain on the Saga Caribbean Calypso. As always we were hoping for some Birds and Cetaceans. The Birds picked up and I saw eleven Cory's Shearwaters. Not many, but better than the half a dozen from the previous day. The Cetacean highlight was a Fin Whale, with a second set of nearby blows.
Cory's Shearwater: The lack of white on P10 makes this a Cory's rather than a Scopoli's
Cory's Shearwater: The same individual
In the afternoon, Terry and I held the first of two Wildlife Clinics in one of the lounges. This was the opportunity for the passengers to come and have a chat about anything on a Cetacean, Bird or other Wildlife theme that they had encountered during the trip. Both sessions were well attended and we managed to identify most of the photos that the passengers brought along. Jan and Charlotte stayed surveying in our absence and they were joined by a new helper, called Big Blue, who was press-ganged into joining the ORCA team on deck. His appearance also attracted a couple of Short-beaked Common Dolphins and two more unidentified Cetaceans, unfortunately, while Terry & I were running the Wildlife Clinic.
Charlotte bought Big Blue in the Caribbean to add to her ever growing menagerie in the cabin
Big Blue getting into the swing of being one of the ORCA team in the Caribbean
Big Blue with Monica, who was another of our regular visitors: He ended up getting a lot of attention, especially from the female passengers when he appeared on deck. His appearances helped to provide a bit more fun on deck when it was quiet
The end of the day noticeboard: It had been a better day that my notes suggested
Day seven at sea from the Caribbean to Spain on the Saga Caribbean Calypso, was similar to the previous day. There was a bit more variety on our last full day at sea, before we reached the Spanish coast and the lovely city of La Coruna. I only saw one Cory's Shearwater all day, but two Gannets and fifty-eight Kittiwakes brought a more European feel to the day. Six distant Terns and twelve medium-sized Waders were interesting signs of migration well out to sea. I didn't see any Cetaceans, but I did have a Shark sp. swim down the starboard side of the ship. Terry & I ran a second Wildlife Clinic in the late afternoon.
Kittiwake: First Winter
Kittiwake: First Winter
The end of the day noticeboard
Day eight at sea from the Caribbean to Spain on the Saga Caribbean Calypso, had a different start as we were relatively close to the Spanish coast & heading for La Coruna on the North West coast. We were hoping for some early morning Dolphins, given we were close in shore. But our main hope was the Bryde's Whale that Charlotte had seen the previous Autumn. She had been in touch with a local Whale-watching company and had heard that it was still around in the bay. As we got closer to La Coruna's bay, we could see lots of Gannets ahead and plunge-diving into the sea. Clearly, there were fish in the area. We picked up a pod of about twenty-five Short-billed Common Dolphins, then Charlotte shouted she had just see a large Whale surface amongst the Dolphins. We needed to get some photos to confirm its identification.
La Coruna Bay
Bryde's Whale: It was still distant, but we could see it was a large Whale
Bryde's Whale: A size comparison with one of the Short-beaked Common Dolphins to its right. It was a large Whale, but it didn't had the length or bulk of a Fin Whale. We needed to get some better photos
Within a couple of minutes, the Bryde's Whale was on view again. They have three prominent ridges on the rostrum, while similar species generally have a single ridge. The head is about twenty-five percent of the body length. The dorsal fin is tall, rises steeply, falcate, generally pointed at the tip and is often notched on the trailing edge. Males can be up to fifteen metres, with females about ten percent longer.
Bryde's Whale: While it is a large Whale, it hasn't got the bulk and length of a Fin Whale
Bryde's Whale: A harsh crop of the last photo. It has a pronounced broad-based dorsal fin with a smooth curve on leading edge, a pointed tip to the dorsal and it just appears to have a notch near the top of the back of the fin
Bryde's Whale: Fin Whales also have this smooth curve on the leading edge of the dorsal fin which rises at a shallower angle. Sei Whales have slender tall dorsal fin, with a distinctive kink halfway along the leading edge
Bryde's Whale: Sadly, the three ridges aren't a lot of use if you can't see the head
The title of this Blog Post suggests a romantic theme. But in reality, Bryde's Whale is named after the 19th Century Norwegian whaler, John Bryde, who was set up the first whaling stations in South Africa His name is pronounced and Bryde’s whale is pronounced as "BROO-dus".
Bryde's Whale: Based upon the dorsal fin shape and size, this looks good for the Bryde's Whale that had been hanging around La Coruna for the previous few months
Bryde's Whale: A harsh crop of the last photo. It has a pronounced dorsal fin with a smooth curve on leading edge, a pointed tip to the dorsal and a clear notch near the top of the back of the fin
La Coruna looked at interesting city with the Tower of Hercules Lighthouse and an interesting surrounding park containing a number of art statues.
The Tower of Hercules Lighthouse: The original Roman Lighthouse dates to the 1st Century. In 1788, the original Roman Lighthouse was protected by a new stone outer tower
The Tower of Hercules Lighthouse
The Spanish version of Stonehenge & Avebury
Horn anybody?
As always, we needed a pilot for the final entry into the port
The harbour wall breakwater: There was a light display on the green semi-circular arch
The Castelo de Santo Anton dates to the 16th Century
We stayed on deck looking to see what Birds we could see as we came into the port. This included fifteen Cormorants, a number of typical Gull species roosting on harbour docks and a Peregrine chasing Feral Pigeons over the town.
Cormorant: This is the continental sinensis subspecies which occurs from North & central Europe to South China. They winter as far South as South East Asia & Indonesia, as well as, being a common wintering species in the UK, alongside our native carbo subspecies
Coming into the cruise ship berth
La Coruna has these interesting glazed window balconies, called galerias: They were designed by naval architects for rainy days. Very soon, it became a popular style for town houses across this corner of Spain
This lovely old building is spoilt by the ugly glass monster next to it
To make up for the failure to get to the Azores, the passengers were going to have a day & a half in La Coruna. I'm sure some took the opportunity for a meal ashore on Valentine's Day.
The view over La Coruna after dark

28 Jan 2025

9 Feb 24 - ORCA Saga Caribbean Calypso Day 23 - An Unexpected Pterodroma Tick

After our eight days of landings in the Lesser Antilles, it was good to be back at sea on the Saga Caribbean Calypso cruise. Every day on our return crossing, we were on deck from dawn to dusk, apart from breaks for breakfast & lunch.
We were on deck at first light which had the benefit of seeing the sunrise
We had little reward for the nine hours we put in on deck on the first day out at sea. During the day, I saw: one distant Tropicbird sp., two Masked Boobies, a few Mirrorwing Flying Fish, some unidentified large Flying Fish (that were probably the same species), a Smurf, but no Cetaceans.
Masked Booby: This was the species of the day. It isn't fully adult, as it still has some black flecks in the white colouration
There was a four metre swell and I thought that might have been the cause of the complete lack of Cetaceans on the first day, as even the largest of Whales can disappear in a four metre swell. However, Charlotte announced on the noticeboard that today was "National Cetacean Snorkelling Day". Perhaps this was influenced by the Captain's daily lunchtime briefing to the ship, with the weather, significant birthdays and stating it was "National Sticky Pudding Day" or something equally fictitious.
Who knew about "National Cetacean Snorkelling Day"?
It was a good job we were on deck at dawn on the second morning, as there was a most amazing sky that morning.
This must be the most amazing dawn sky I've seen
All ORCA teams on Saga ships need a tall surveyor to clean the glass screens: The crew washed the decks dawn pre-dawn. But on this morning, Jan asked if they could wash the glass screens for us, while Terry did a great job drying them
Our second day at sea, was very similar to the first. Despite another nine hours or so on deck, I only saw: the first two Cory's Shearwaters of our return crossing, a White-tailed Tropicbird that came past without stopping, a single Masked Booby, a few more Mirrorwing Flying Fish and a Smurf. It was another day of scant reward for the effort we put in.
Masked Booby: Like the previous day's individual, it isn't fully adult, as it still has black flecks in the white colouration
Masked Booby: This is the nominate dactylatra subspecies which occurs in the Caribbean and South West Atlantic. Will it be the next new Seabird for the UK to be found by Bob Flood?
White-tailed Tropicbird: This is the catesbyi subspecies which breeds on Bermuda, the Bahamas, the Greater Antilles, the Virgin Islands & the Lesser Antilles. A second Atlantic subspecies breeds on Fernando de Noronha & Ascension
White-tailed Tropicbird: The White-tailed Tropicbird bombed past without stopping
White-tailed Tropicbird: Even if you cannot see the bill colour, it is easily identified as a White-tailed Tropicbird as Red-billed Tropicbirds do not have the black band on the inner wing
White-tailed Tropicbird: Oddly, the best view of the upperwing pattern was when it was further away
The second evening ended with a good sunset: I wonder if there was some high Saharan dust or volcanic dust in the air
No two sunsets are the same: It's always nice to be on deck until last light, in case it's a memorable sunset
I thought our third day at sea would be quieter than the first two. We were too far out from the Caribbean to continue to see some of the Caribbean Seabirds and I was just expecting a few more Cory's Shearwaters. We had already passed out of range of the Magnificent Frigatebirds and my predictions were correct, as there were no more Boobies or Tropicbirds, with the Cory's Shearwater tally increased to five.
Trindade Petrel: This was a largely white Pterodroma Petrel with a white throat, pale grey breast band, white underwings and a black M, with the black continued onto the axillaries
What I wasn't expected to see were some small Pterodroma Petrels, which all passed the ship at a few hundred metres range. No surprise there, as most Pterodromas I've seen fly past, rather than are attracted to, the ships I've been on. The first two appeared together after a long quiet spell and they were quite confusing. One was clearly a Pterodroma Petrel with light-medium brown upperparts, light-medium brown underparts with a large white belly and a dark underwing with a white under patch on it. It was trailed by a second all-dark individual. My initial reaction to the all-dark individual was maybe it's a Sooty Shearwater, so I ignored it and focused on the white-bellied Pterodroma Petrel. I was confident it was a small Pterodroma Petrel that I didn't recognise. A quick check against photos online confirmed the white-bellied Pterodroma Petrel was my first Trindade Petrel. It wasn't on my radar for the trip, but eBird confirmed that they were likely to be in this area of the Atlantic outside of the breeding season. I was frustrated that I hadn't managed to get any photos of it. I tried, but didn't manage to get the camera on exactly the right bit of the sea. I also realised I had forgotten that Trindade Petrel had an all-dark phase and the individual I had largely ignored was an all-dark Trindade Petrel. In hindsight, that made a lot more sense than a much larger and different-shaped Sooty Shearwater.
Trindade Petrel: Bermuda Petrel shows a similar underwing pattern, but the black M stops before the obvious white axillaries
Trindade Petrel: The normal all-dark morph is all brown with pale flashes primaries on the underwing. The white-bellied morph has a broad brown throat and breast, a white belly and brown on the vent and undertail. There is a white band along the length of the wing on the primary and secondary underwing coverts. These are the only two morphs I've seen described in books
Less than an hour later, another Pterodroma Petrel appeared. It was even whiter than the previous white-bellied Trindade Petrel. This time I quickly lifted the camera and got some photos, despite it being equally distant. I had a quick look at the photos. They confirmed this was clearly a Pterodroma Petrel with light-medium grey upperparts, a whitish underwing with a black M on it. This one was a different species and it definitely, wasn't any of the Western Palearctic Pterodroma Petrels, a Trindade Petrel or was a Soft-plumaged Petrel. That only left Black-capped Petrel or the really rare Bermuda Petrel as possibilities. I assumed it was a Black-capped Petrel, but decided I needed to check the book and photos on line later.
Trindade Petrel: This shows the extent of the black axillaries and also the white throat and grey breastband
By the end of the day, I had seen three Trindade Petrels: one all-dark and two white-bellied individuals. I had also seen two of the largely white under-winged Pterodroma Petrels with the black M. But, I only managed to photograph one of them. The photos show what is clearly a Pterodroma Petrel, with light-medium grey upperparts and a whitish underwing with a black M on it that continues into the axillaries. It clearly wasn't a Black-capped Petrel, as it didn't have the distinctive black cap, pale collar and pale rump. It equally wasn't a Trindade Petrel as it was different to the white-bellied and all-dark Trindade Petrels I had seen that day. On the face of it, it looked superficially similar to Bermuda Petrel, but while the photos show they have the black M, the black stops before the armpit and their axillaries are white. Plus, this rare Pterodroma Petrel should be on the Bermuda breeding grounds now, albeit these could have been non-breeding immatures. But there was enough to suggest that it wasn't a Bermuda Petrel. The only Seabird field guide I had with me: the excellent "Oceanic Birds of the World" photo guide by Howell & Zufelt, but all that did was to eliminate all the potential Pterodromas around the world. I worried over the photos and looked online and I was none the wiser. Terry sent the photos to a couple of Cornish Birders he knew, but they came back with Fea's Petrel or Zino's Petrel. I was one hundred percent confident it wasn't one of those species. In the end, I grouped the photos up and emailed Bob Flood for some help. I didn't get a reply and as I hadn't seen anything from Bob for a while on twitter, I came to the conclusion he was probably away at sea. I would just have to wait until I heard from Bob or I got home with access to more books.
Trindade Petrel: Note, even the vent is white compared to the white-bellied morph
I was none the wiser for the rest of the trip about these two mystery Pterodroma Petrels, despite more online researching. When I got home I looked at the excellent "North Atlantic Seabirds: Pterodroma Petrels" by Bob Flood and Ashley Fisher. The main text and photos for Trindade Petrel reinforces the two colour morphs of Trindade Petrel that we had seen. The book describes the light morph, which is what I'm referring to in this Blog Post as the white-bellied morph. Then by chance, I looked at the rest of the book and found a photo on page 32 of an even whiter morph Trindade Petrel, which looked very similar to the individual I photographed. It was mentioned in a section showing how some species can have light and dark morphs. But, the main Trindade Petrel text didn't reference this photo or show other photos of this morph. Finally, I came to the conclusion that the two mystery Pterodroma Petrels were most likely Trindade Petrels and there are three morphs of the species: an all-dark morph; the white-bellied morph; a third morph that I had photographed, which the books don't mention. It was made all the more confusing by the normal term for the white-bellied morph being called the light morph, thus suggesting their couldn't be an even whiter morph. I think I had an answer in my mind. But it was still speculation in my mind, based upon one very grainy photo on page 32 of Bob's Pterodroma book.
Trindade Petrel: The wing looks to be in moult with darker old outer primaries and shorter inner primaries
Finally, Bob returned from his long sea trip and he had chance to respond. He confirmed it was "a Trindade Petrel, there is more variation than currently shown in literature and he attached a photo of a similar individual taken on Trindade Island". In the end I was glad that Bob had been at sea, as it gave me the chance to have a thorough read of the literature I had, to find that photo on page 32 and to come to the conclusion it was likely to be a Trindade Petrel. But I was also really glad to get the confirmation from Bob, as I couldn't find anything to one hundred percent confirm my suspicions. That's the great thing about Birding, is the post observation investigations and learning, coupled with the all-important photos from the field. So, the final tally for the day was five Trindade Petrels: one all-dark individual, two white-bellied individuals and two of these much whiter individuals. Birding would be boring, if all we had to do was to read a number of the side of a Bird, like train-spotters can do with serial numbers on a train carriage.
Trindade Petrel: They breed on the Brazilian Trindade & Martim Vaz Islands seven hundred miles East of the Brazilian coast
Our position at sea for the first two Trindade Petrels
When faced with Seabirds like this confusing Trindade Petrel, there is always a dilemma. When the Seabird is going away and I am struggling to figure it out with the bins, do I keep watching it and hope it will turn or do I lift the camera. On some occasions, I've tried the camera and failed to get it to focus correctly or for me to pick up the Seabird in the right part of the sea. But sometimes when I'm struggling to see that fine detail to confirm the identification, then the camera works and provides the evidence to get to a correct identification. Fortunately, this was one of the occasions when the camera option worked. Three other occasions when the camera worked really well were:
Terry doing some public engagement with two of our regular visitors Monica and passenger Terry: Terry's wife Penny joined Charlotte in watching for Cetaceans
When we left the Caribbean, we were expecting to be back at sea for five days, with the Azores as our next destination. That day, the Captain announced there was a big storm that was scheduled to hit the Azores close to our visit. Consequently, he had replanned the route and we would be spending seven full days at sea. Our next landing would be La Coruna, in North West Spain instead. We had experiencing four metre swells since leaving the Caribbean and we didn't need even rougher seas on the Azores route. A couple of different passengers said this was their third Saga cruise, where they had failed to reach the Azores. Unfortunately, I would have no chance of seeing my first Azores Bullfinches and Azores Chaffinches.
We have now got another four & a half days of surveying until we see land
Day four at sea from the Caribbean to North West Spain was a very quiet and uneventful day, despite the ORCA team spending another nine hours of so surveying. My only wildlife sightings were a final white-bellied Trindade Petrel and a single Cory's Shearwater during the morning. I also saw my first Cetacean since leaving the Caribbean, but it was a frustratingly brief sighting of a probable Beaked Whale sp. During one of my off duty rotations, I went to explore the deck below the top deck. There was some interesting art work, but it wasn't a great observation deck as the roof of the bridge obscured too much of the forward view. After taking a few photos, I decided the top deck was the better viewing location.
Terry keeping an eye out
Art work on the deck below the top deck
The rest of the art work
Another sunset when there wasn't a repeat of the Green Flash
Towards late afternoon, the temperature suddenly dropped and it got rougher. We must have been on the edge of the rougher weather heading for the Azores that afternoon.